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Good call! I actually have three but they are all the same (oldest?) version - the one with the extra cache card on the back. My version definitely looks taller in the pictures. I guess I knew there were multiple versions but I didn't realize they were different sizes. I actually thought...

So here's a weird one. I finally found a Daystar IIx adapter (pretty elusive, that one). I attach a Turbo 040, open up the IIx, aaand... it won't fit!! The card is too tall, i.e. the post that holds up the drive tray is in the way. I need maybe extra 5-7mm. This seems odd since the Turbo...

Not to mention, the OP explicitly stated he obtained Doug’s permission to monetize these, while I see no such mention in the post above.

Or Billy Mays from beyond the grave.

I use hot air almost exclusively for cap removal and I’ve not experienced this issue, but I would suspect that your technique needs some adjustment. Be patient and don't pull on the cap. Instead, gently nudge it to see if it's loose. Only lift it off once the solder is completely melted. It...

Multimeter won’t help. I would inspect carefully to make sure you don’t have damaged or bent pins. I see one in the picture that doesn’t look quite right, but it’s hard to make out.

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Oh, I didn't realize that was your article. That's a mighty Centris 650 you have there!

Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize that the combination of higher CPU clock and lower timings actually provides the best performance, while higher timings provide better stability. Makes perfect sense now (although maybe not intuitively obvious).

I'm really curious why, according to the linked article, the overclocked Quadra 800 video performance is so much higher than the 840av. Does anybody know the technical reason behind this?

I don't have a Lisa but I assume this keyboard is made of ABS, in which case I would recommend acetone to close that crack. I would apply some with a brush from the inside of the case, then wait a few seconds and press the two sides together. I usually put some tape over the front before...

Did you ask Dennis Nedry?

I played the s**t out of Spaceward Ho! on my SE/30 in the early 90s. Probably my 3rd most hours spent back then after Curse of Azure Bonds and Pool of Radiance.

I've seen the blooming multiple times (i.e. the sides bulge out when a white window opens on a gray background). I performed a series of tests, swapping analog boards, neck boards, deflection yokes, etc. In the cases I experienced, the tube itself ended up being the culprit. I believe that as...

The anode cap isn’t a replaceable part. It’s permanently attached and comes as part of the flyback transformer assembly. I would be very weary of potential shorts in the anode cap since that will surely lead to some nasty sparking. If it was me, I would try to source a replacement flyback...

Those look correct based on the article you linked, but personally I wouldn't buy from a site like this since there's a high likelihood of receiving fake ICs. What I would do is to look on eBay for 72-pin RAM SIMMs (72-pin being the most economical since they are usually cheap) that have those...

Congratulations!! That makes at least two of us that had the 40MHz oscillator go bad. I wonder if it's a common problem with the Mac II.

I've had a few Mac II's with no video. NUBUS circuitry on those machines takes up like half the board, and any broken trace anywhere will lead to lack of NUBUS and therefore no video. I would start by carefully inspecting traces. Possible suspects would include ICs in the vicinity of leaky...

Oh, right on. Didn't know about that. It still comes to about $10 a pop after shipping and taxes, which is still quite high, but not outrageous.

If building a reloaded board, be aware that the traditional replacement RAM slots from PE connectors have shot up in price and are now $40 each! Used to be like $6. So take care desoldering the existing ones.