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An update. I received the eBay replacement for CPU B. The CPU was clearly made for the version 1 LCS and my system used the version 2 LCS. The "EEE" codes and the long CPU model number etched on the white substrate under the black "cover" around the CPU die matched. It may look weird but when...

I have a partial success. Apparently CPU A wasn't as dead as I thought it was. CPU B has a crushed corner on the die. As soon as I plugged power in the LEDs for trickle power and CPU B came on. This was to be expected especially with only 1 CPU. When I pressed the power button the power good...

Well, i'm gonna try swapping the CPUs and even try just 1 this weekend. Kinda wanna know what will happen since I find conflicting info on a quad running with 1 CPU. I know the 2nd one can be disabled in Open Firmware but that's with a booting system with 2 functional CPUs. The 2 versions of...

Specifically the model is M9592LL/A with 2X 2.5GHZ 970MPs. I've attached 2 images taken before I finished rebuilding the LCU a couple years ago. The 1st one is cropped showing only the barcodes. The Apple service manual identifies the quad processor as part 661-3729 but I think that's the whole...

I didn't know there were multiple versions of the modules. Where would this be found? After looking at images I've taken while rebuilding the original LCU neither the white sticker on the bottom or the CPUs themselves seem to have a version number. They each have a matching board number on the...

It has been a while since I last posted this and this is a bit of a followup. I wanted to be done with water cooling so I followed a guide on Macrumors. There weren't any issues with the process of doing the mod and in fact it went quite smoothly. However, when removing the LCU (rebuilt a couple...

Have some bad news. After booting CPU A temps were in the upper 70sC and climbing and CPU B temps were in the upper 20sC while the system was quickly ramping up to panic mode. I checked the energy save settings and the performance was still set to reduced. Seconds after that the over temp LED...

Think I went above and beyond what you asked for. When I first turned it on there were no readings in istat menus for anything temp/power related (this is new). After doing the rebuild the stock G5 plate and air baffle no longer fit due the height of the pumps so I made something out of tape to...

Not really sure what's going on so maybe someone has some ideas. This G5 had the "new blood" mod done to it quite some time ago and has been running fine on an almost daily basis since then with periodic maintenance to keep fluid full. I posted many images of my "journey" in the new blood mod...

Yes these have aluminum rads and copper blocks. Excellent combination.

It has now been about 2 weeks since i've finished this project and in that time I got 4 more sensors running. Still not sure why they weren't working in the 1st place or why they all started working at once. For starters the drive bay sensor and 3 others from the back side were giving "general...

Replacement RAM from OWC arrived a few days ago and all seems to be going fine now. CPU A's exhaust fan was spinning at 100% for some reason but a reset of the logic board (little button below the RAM slots) fixed that. For the coolant I used clear EK Cryofuel. For repasting all chips I used...

Thermal calibration passed today after 15 min. When running the other tests all 16gb RAM failed at the pattern test. Take it that means it's all bad? After several attempts it was able to boot to Tiger desktop once where I connected to my wifi and set the date/time before it froze (no checkstop...

Don't know about non-conductive but i'm using clear EK CryoFuel. It's non-corrosive, anti-microbial and is great for thermally demanding PCs. Why clear? Wanted to see how much sediment was left in the loops... and it was on sale. Image on the far left: each side passed a 45min @ 8psi leak test...

Not really sure. Tried rotating, shaking, and tapping it on the table and nothing. It's so weird since all the individual parts flow freely. The last time I flushed the rad was when each side ran clear for a day. How much flow are the 2 pumps supposed to have? I think the DDC pumps are more...

Not sure if this is normal or not but when the components were separate (block, radiator, z tube) the flow of fluid was quite strong... almost too strong. However, when everything it put together there is "ok" flow and slowly goes down to a constant trickle (both directions). I know for a fact...

Hmm yes been wondering about that... mine looks the same way. Was thinking about filling the void with silicone.

Did a test fit of the clamps I got (same style that were on there) and it looks like they could tear the softer silicone tubing in the future. After bending back a couple nails and slicing my finger open I managed to get short strips of the 3/8 tubing around all 8 connections. These fit super...

A little update. Got a real pump for fountains at Menards. It was strong enough to cause the radiator to vomit out crystals and other debris after another ultrasonic session. All parts flow freely and clean now. The tubing on the bottom for the copper blocks has been removed revealing some...

Deciding to go on I removed the pumps to begin flushing the radiator. The first thing I noticed is what appears to be corrosion from some leakage on 1 of the blocks (both CPUs came off with no signs of corrosion). When everything is done I'll have to run fluid through that side for a few days...