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Not bad, really.

The only thing i can think of are Roms, they are several available, so maybe the revisions are following Roms. Probably also some changes in the Logic Board design, but should be pretty light.

Probably both Ram cards are overkill, the mouse card, well, don’t use it too much myself. Both serial cards, I will keep the SSC only.

The Egret is most of the time the issue

No, the fault code is clear, memory issue. This is a common problem on the 128/512 line. The voltage is better tested at the rear floppy port. The red wire is neg 12 (- 12 volts) and if removed from the board, probably will no be accurate.

Bad solder joint or Flyback

Hi, if you are not comfortable with a soldering iron,, you will probably not be able to do much, chips are soldered to the board and repairs are not for a beginner, you can damage the board in the process. first digits are for the main issue, the others for location, but several are probably...

Sorry, my fault was looking at Q11 instead.

Not bad for $ 350

IIRC BR103 is not a direct replacement of the original and no longer available Q12. sorry but the BR103 is not reversed in you picture, again, i think it should be the opposite of the footprint in the board.

So if i am not mistaken, the switch you are talking about is SW2. Center pin is not connected to anything, and just a mounting point. One side is connected to ground, the other side to pin 46 of the Sony CX20185 chip. This chip is a read/write amplifier, so when the carrier is down, pin 46...

Not clear to me but the switch should be normally open when there is not disk inserted, and closed when the disk is in, and the to carrier is in the bottom position. Your best option is to have a copy of the schematics and using a multimeter, have a look at what trace goes where and see what's...

Caps are most of the time cracked on the Classic AB, neved have the issue present on other models, i leave them alone...

Pretty cool, thanks

Hard to say from a picture but is C1 properly soldered on ? The negative side doesn’t look like it is.

I use a side cutter plier to remove the head first. Then remove the remaining legs, I have removed many (too many) capacitors, almost never had any issue.

Never seen this HD. Keyboard is a 128 or 512k not Plus… better deal.

Still trying to get it working.

Probably a broken trace, use a multimeter and check continuity from the chip and to any capacitor