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Nice work, I don’t retrobright anymore. I have some yellowing coming back, and some marble effect also, and plastic looks more fragile after. A very nice setup.

Problem solved, I think the issue was due to the video output of the IIc, the image is great with my Apple IIe.

resistor network 10k Ohm 62 and 470 ohm to me (5 pin variant) https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/apple-iic-mouse-compatibility-some-details-schematics-and-a-chip-swap-to-fix-compatibility.3828

Yes drive mecanism is the same (or really close, but i have worked only a couple of time in an Apple III, but sure i had and issue with a drive and used a Disk II mecanism) IIRC the board should be close enough for chip swapping. Here below is a picture of a III drive, the black and white...

Yes i agree with RetroTheryboy, most are the International type and are clearly stated that way, so a jumper wire and you are done.

To be honest, i have seen far worse, but if you want to be on the safe side, you can rebuild a new one.

The drives are pretty easy to work on, first step is to be sure they are running at the right speed, you can use any App on Iphone or probably Android to do so : https://apps.apple.com/fr/app/strobe-tachometer-rpm-meter/id831460940 After that, some chips can be faulty on the board, but are...

Yes, I will swap external to internal for a test. If your internal is not reading, you can try troubleshooting it. Maybe the speed is bad (299 rpm) or head is bad or dirty. The drives are Apple IIs with a different board so fairly easy to find.

Hi, looking for any advise from a CRT guru. I have collected a nice little monitor, replaced a lot of capacitors (no obvious fault) as the monitor has a wobbly (from left to right) image (the image is also rolling up and down) I am thinking that it is an issue with vertical deflection, but no...

Never seen before, but looks like you are having a foldover on the right edge ( round corners are missing)

I agree a 100% with all above, by far the Classic is the more unreliable unit ever built, it was a cheap put together item at the time, and still is today. It was a Macintosh Plus in new clothes, but with prone to failure new capacitors, in the Logic Board and Analog side. Start with new...

IIRC, the Pismo will need a pram battery to work properly ( but I don’t have a Pismo myself) the Wallstreet is playing ok without, but will have issues with backlight or contrast, the bronze don’t need a battery either (I have both and the batteries have been dead for a while now)

Not in the Imac G3, but at some point tried a couple of alternative cards, including the Orinoco Silver and the Cisco Aironet. Both worked without any issue in PowerBooks, some directly detected as original Airport cards, some only when a third party program was present.

No heatsink required ?

I agree, probably too many bad chips to generate a correct fault code. You can try the piggybackîng method to narrow down the issue.

The first LC model was available with two floppy drives and can be sold without hard drive. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macintosh_LC

Hi, yes you can add multiple HDs, using the rear scsi connector. One of the drives can be a Prodos formated drive. At some point, I used DSK2File to write 5,25 floppy disks. https://dwheeler.com/6502/oneelkruns/dsk2file.html Will write an image file to 5,25 floppy. Never done to a 3,5 one...

Have a look at my own post for the Apple II monitor repair, probably related (the monitor is using the same TDA1170) Here enclosed the SAMS manual, maybe the Lisa is close enough…

Hi Janez, I will say 4/5

Last week, I collected an Apple Il monitor for a fair price (was advised for parts or repair and untested, but in good condition) After cleaning the casing (which was great) I tested it only to discover that it was suffering from a complete vertical collapse. remember the untested notification...