Search results

Hi Mike, sorry to hear about your damaged board. As always, the first question is: which part of the US are you located in?

Hi @haramia, just catching up on this after a busy weekend, I responded to your PM but I see you posted newer updates here. Sounds like you lifted the EECS pin on the VIA chip off the board like I suggested. Weird that you never see it go high. The AT93C46 datasheet states "A valid instruction...

I just came across these connectors and remembered this thread, so I'll drop the link here in case anyone wants to experiment: https://www.surplussales.com/items/107804/db-19-d-sub-male/

My approach when working without a schematic like this is to just get the one with the highest saturation current that physically fits and meets any other known specs. If there's an extreme cost difference, just "pretty high" or "higher than average" is probably enough, considering we're dealing...

Should be pretty easy to find a replacement as long as the markings on the top of the part or still readable (or if someone else can post theirs). That will tell us the inductance. Also need to know the lead spacing. Agree, that's some brittle solder. The rough/dull joints be reflowed with flux.

No, that's not simasimac, but it's better in a way. This is a logic board problem, not an analog board problem. You have working video, just missing a vertical line. Probably a broken trace somewhere.

Thanks for documenting your experience! Glad to hear you got it fixed

As long as you get a later mask, even a 25MHz labeled 68030 should be fine at 40MHz. You might want to slap a heatsink on it, though.

What's the voltage rating on that tantalum? I interpret "686A" as a 6V-rated 68uF cap, but I hope I'm wrong. The original cap appears to be 68uF 10V.

I suppose not 😥

I was too afraid to try it for a long time, but vinegar works really well for this kind of corrosion. Just the regular grocery store 5%, scrub with a toothbrush, rinse thoroughly with distilled water, then isopropanol to drive the water out of all the little crevices. I've gotten great results...

Used Metcal MX-500. This type of iron is head and shoulders above everything else. Example: https://ebay.us/m/jZQhqG

...besides salvaging one from the logic board of a Y2K iMac? I am very skeptical of what I am seeing on eBay and UTSOURCE. Seems like these parts would be trivially easy to re-mark.

Oof, poor GLU chip. Someone will want that board for parts though, there's still some good stuff there. SWIM chip, Bourns filters, etc.

Yep. I soldered in a holder on my SE, but I enjoy soldering. The holder in your pictures looks like a pretty slick solution. That's the first time I've seen it done that way.

Running without a battery is annoying because every time you boot the machine, the default mouse speed is super slow.

Lotta upgrades back then were real hacks by today's standards!

This is just a SWAG, but if one RAM slot stops working at higher clock speed, the reason for the failure may be that there are signal integrity issues at the higher speed.

Ah, okay. Welcome back! Good luck.