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Just found this and curious if anyone has done any troubleshooting with it? https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/applecat-se30

.Just curious if you ever got the M1212 working? I just acquired one and am considering recapping.

Thanks!

Interesting surprise when I opened this AA15830. It appears that C1, C2, CA, C16 are Red film capacitors with the black rubber insulation around them. Are these considered more reliable than the block shaped ones that crack/explode (rifa's etc)? Also the large capacitors C8 and C9 appear to be...

Can't delete this comment so I'll edit to say thanks again for the info.

ok cool. thanks!

Ok thanks. Do you know which specific cap numbers those are and what ESR ratings are needed? VAME ="Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts" on Facebook.

I'm about to recap an Astec AA15830 power supply and had someone on VAME tell me "you cannot use generic caps and some of them must be very low ESR". Is this correct? and if so, which caps need to have which ESR ratings? (Thanks for the Cap list above).

Thought I'd share this. I made it so I wouldn't have to keep going between pages on the schematic. It's in progress but i believe it's all correct. Please let me know if you find any errors. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiMi1-8Q4qTq2rb5jEABZ0Hbr0nSUzj3OomMximtY2E/edit?gid=0#gid=0

So you can expand an M0322 (630-4222) to 8bit 256 colors @640x480 by adding memory chips? This is great news. I was not at all familiar with how this card worked. I just bought a IICX with an M0322 and would definitely like to get it to 8bit.

thanks very much. Yeah I did get this working a while back. It's a great little OS9 machine for sure... now I need to find out if it's possible to replace the backlight.

It became obvious to me how much more difficult it is to get a GLU off the board than it is to get the 44 pin chips. Did not seem like heat and time alone were ever going to get it. I've taken them off easily when I've been the one who originally soldered them with leaded solder but getting...

good point I was literally going to get a hacksaw blade and carefully cut the chips out. I was wondering about cutting traces to ground if that would have much affect. Makes sense.

Got the GLU off. Not without a fight and too much heat. One thing I realized, in the case of a badly battery bombed board where you know you're not gonna want the board, after the solder has at least weakened significantly, you can pry the chip up from the corners with tweezers which will take...

thanks yeah this is a donor board that's been bombed. Beyond repair I think so I'm not too worried about it warping. What temperature are you typically using?

thanks. Yeah I should make it all one thread going forward. What temperature do you typically use?

I'm trying to remove the GLU from a IICX board without damaging it. Currently "practicing" on the NUCHIP which I don't need. Removed as much solder as I could with wick and put plenty of flux on the pins. Then attempted to remove the NUCHIP with hot air using all the technique I'm familiar...

Ok I understand now. Thanks.

Here's a good example. What would then be the difference between Pin 7 (-x) and Pin 10 (for example) which is not shown at all ? Edit: I think I get it..the -x are an actual listed part of the circuit (identified in blue lettering. Pin 7 in this case is IE0) though they are simply soldered to...

Very helpful post! Currently in the reloaded simsimac trenches....