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A scope is always nice to have, but a microscope/magnifying light might be better. I noticed your row of U-chips is pretty corroded, specifically UE8, and UF8. There's probably more corrosion elsewhere, but zooming in you can see the rotted pins/traces, with just a camera phone and the zoom...

Got to thinking about when you said "technique", is that for the cheap ebay socket, to make it fit? Since I've not seen the problem yet with inserting a 68030 in to a cheap ebay socket: is the issue because of the alignment of the pins, or the diameter of the pin sockets, that causes issues...

I searched here earlier and others said the ebay socket worked for them. I'll look at repairing my stock socket again, but it was having continuity problems, and some of the solder that came off, was like the corroded solder from my UE10, where it sticks to everything, and globs together...

Thanks for the replies. I'm hoping to never have to remove the CPU again, if it goes in once, and all the pins have continuity, I'm happy. Are you guys saying that won't be possible with the ebay socket?

Went ahead and got the 128 pin FPGA socket from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276784142022 Mil-Max wants $30 before shipping.

Got the socket out, probably should have tried Deoxit on the pins first, as it looks good under there. Unfortunately some pins came out of the socket, and seem to be a bit rough. Should I spend time trying to repair this socket? Is there a good alternative for sale?

In getting started looking for corroded/broken traces, I looked at the SE/30 Pin matrix at the bottom of the schematic. Seemed like A(0) was as good a place to start as any. Since my CPU is socketed, and flipping the LB over trying to measure points on both sides was a hassle, removed the CPU...

Got the ASC UE10 back on, and all traces restored. No chime, no change. This all had to be done at some point, so not a complete waste of time. Will begin checking the CPU and ROM traces next.

Had to make a new trace for Pin 35 on the ASC UE10 chip, and then UV solder mask the nearby trace to keep from bridging the pins. The UE10 pins on the bottom row of the chip are not soldered in yet, and need to be bodged still, but the rest of the ASC is connected to the correct pins, and not...

Got UD12 back on and all traces properly connected. Not pretty but it's solid. Working up the courage to put UE10 back on, and bodge the broken traces. Will test it at that point, before removing TL071 and Q2, to see if any improvement or progress has been made.

Got UD12 removed. Was able to scrape the board traces, and solder the broken traces closed again, no bodge wire necessary. Will go over the bare traces with UV solder mask before installing the chip again. Will have to run wires for the broken traces on UE10 pin 19, 20, and 22, like I did...

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it! So many sound chip problems on this board. This is giving me hope, thank you! I've looked this board all over, and there is no other corrosion near the CPU, RAM, ROM, or muxes. It was starting to worry me that fixing the ASC wouldn't cure the...

Looks like UD12 is corroded and may have some bad traces. UD12 is listed in the Serial and Sound schematic. Will remove TL-071, Q2, and UD12 in order to check the traces and remove the corrosion.

More sound chips. In fact the direct connection to the speaker.

Looks like TL071 and Q2 are also rotted. What's TL071 and Q2 responsible for? Looking for them on the schematic now.

Pin 22 is also broken. This has to be done, might as well be now.

Thanks! I'm getting ready to check every pad and via connected to UE10, on both sides of the board, right now.

The three missing pins are 19, 20, and 35. Pin 35 is Vcc for UE10, and it was rotted off like UE8 was. Need to manage my expectations, but this feels like I'm on to something significant here.

As soon as the hot air flowed, the kapton tape lifted, and then the foil got in the way. Removed the kapton tape and foil, used the square nozzle for the hot air, flooded UE10 with flux, and set the Yihua 959D to 400°C, with a fan speed of 7. Took about 2 minutes and kept bumping it with...

Taped off UE10. Working up the courage to do this, now that things are in order.