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Got the new scope, might take some getting used to, there's a disconnect between the eyes and hands having the screen remote - just feels weird at the moment. Looks incredible though, now that I can see what I'm doing. Will practice getting my hands and eyes to agree on this, and then remove...

Instead of going with a desk mounted AmPro for $600+, I'm trying a $139 Amazon one, it should be here in the next couple of hours, with same day delivery. https://www.amazon.com/Andonstar-AD246S-M-Microscope-Biological-Compatible/dp/B09VPPS96M

Thanks! I do have the standard Yihua 959D. But UE10 is surrounded by those new tantalum caps. I do have kapton tape and foil. If I'm going to remove UE10, I really need better magnification, and it doesn't come cheap. Might have to wait until I can fix that.

I was thinking that too, but removing that entire chip feels like serious business. Is the VLSI chip impossible to find an NOS replacement for? Can that be socketed? Good to know. If you look at Post #74, above, you can see the traces have changed to an amber color immediately following the...

Learned that UV light can sunburn a PCB, this one upset me pretty good, had to walk away from this for a bit. Broke the leg off the the replacement LS166, and had to order a new one, and clean the old one off, and start over. It's not pretty, but it's connected to where it should be on both...

Can't tell if this is dry, exactly, but after 30 minutes under the UV, I'm wondering if it can get any better. Might give it another 30 minutes under the UV, to see if anything changes.

About to mount the new UE8 chip. But first had to clean up the scraping of the board. Did find copper under there, but below the top layer. Not good. UV solder mask not yet cured. May have made it too thick to dry properly. Should know soon.

Thanks for that! The LS166 should be here Saturday, I'll get those traces checked.

That's a good call @obsolete , that does look to be touching a pin on the VLSI chip, @BespokeMan

Yes, noticed there was a substitute still available, and deleted that edit.

Do you get the chime at least? I used the zoom feature on my ancient phone, to take those close up pics of the UE8 chip. Can you get some good pics of your row of Uxx chips, that UE8 is in? You're welcome to post some pics in here, if you feel like it. The new LS166 UE8 8-bit shift register...

Looks like the bodges won't be difficult to get connected again. The red line is GND, and can be patched in to the via above it, tested and proven. The green bodge doesn't have far to go either. Will get the parts ordered and get back to this soon.

You're absolutely correct, those pads were burned off, before I started digging at the board looking for copper under there. Should've left it like this: But I watched a YT video where the guy explains you just need to scrape away that black layer to get to the copper below. Well, not if the...

Is 30 AWG Kynar wire sufficient, or what would you recommmend?

A leg rotted off. Having a lot of trouble trying to uncover those traces that were blackened. Can't get solder to stick to those two pads. Will order a LS166, and see if I have to use bodge wires, hope not.

If none of the above works, will be paying special attention to UE8, and in particular this trace that seems to go to the bottom of the LB, there is no via to test on the top side.

After watching this video @0:42: That's the exact same simasimac pattern I have. He concludes fairly early on that he should've tried some different RAM to start off with, before going so far in to the repair process. I have 4Mb of tested RAM in my SE, that I'll be trying out in the SE/30...

Everything was going really well, until I plugged it in. Seems I've joined the simasimac club, except I get no chime, just an opening pop/crack as if a sound might begin to play (very brief pop/click), and then only this. The chains. Checked the ROM slot, and found a small piece of plastic...

Got the 1.44 floppy rebuilt. Stock grease and gears. Some mold growing on my cheese gear? Barely touched the moldy cheese gear with my thumbnail to remove it from the case, and a chunk came off of the small inner gear. DuPont Molykote from Japan. These Betterbit eject gears from ebay are...

Ebay has a decent selection, went with the Japan Molykote, instead of Dow Corning, got one from CA, as opposed to NJ, was trying to get it quicker. https://www.ebay.com/itm/387715756346