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But you know what... I had to give it a try:

Ai is overrated. That said, I can imagine a few interesting images...

I use an inexpensive Vevor 30L one. You can get it from the usual places. It does not have a few functions nicer ones have, but works just fine.

This poor Classic II showed up as a full-scale biohazard. The previous owner clearly smoked. Their cats clearly smoked. Honestly, everything in that house probably smoked. I had to save it. I tore the machine down to the last Torx screw and loaded my 30L ultrasonic cleaner with anything it...

I tried using a pin vise and a fine file afterward smooth out the contacts on the armature a bit. It's extremely delicate, so either way be careful. It's soft metal, so I would be hesitant to use power tools... if I could. (it didn't fit the chuck on my drill or dremel.)

It 100% does, but this isn't a motor that will get used a lot, and when it does get used, it is only on for around a second. There is always a better way to do it. I just didn't have Emory cloth or sand paper I could cut small enough to fit. Also, the gunk was so solid that it laughed at...

Agreed. They are really delicate. I also tried IPA on the shaft. No luck here. I wonder if it was a different lubricant used in your drive? The one in all of mine was hard and tar-like.

It has a much lower duty cycle than a model train would. I think it's a safe bet that this fix won't last forever, but it can be repeated.

I agree, though in the motors I've worked on, the black contamination was way to thick and hard to go easy on. Perhaps using a drill or lathe and a micro file after would help extend the lifetime of the motor. On the other hand, they duty cycle of the motor nowadays is so low it probably does...

I've had to realign a few Sony 2Mb drives. I use a floppy formatted in a good drive and adjust the optical stop a fraction of a millimeter at a time until the computer mounts the floppy. I've gotten it right the first try, but more often it takes a while. The other outlier is about an hour.

Yeah, I probably should have said it's delicate a few times. Good tips!

You'd need a jeweler's lathe. If I had one, I'd probably use it. Nowadays since the floppy would be used rarely, it probably does not matter.

Probably not. The contamination doesn't look like an oxide. Its more tar-like. Probably the oil breaking down in the sparks from the motor.

Not quite. Though you could probably cross a drive with a nerf gun and have some fun. Probably wouldn't be that good for reading floppies afterward, but it'd get the attention of the user.

Eject motors getting weak over time has been a thing with vintage Macs since... well, since they weren't vintage. I've accumulated a small graveyard of them and finally decided to crack one open and see what was going on. First step: getting in: You have to desolder the tabs (or wires) that...

I'm happy you got it. I've noticed on a few different boards from the era that when a capacitor near an IC leaks, the only way to fix it is to remove the IC and test every trace. In the case of UH1 on the IIci, it seems more susceptible than most on that board.

Evaporust works well on corroded iron or steel, but I haven't seen it work with the copper corrosion you often get on boards like this. I use it sometimes to clean frames for older all in one Macs, and also power supply cases, floppy drive parts, etc. The best way to deal with moderate to...

So, when I get one of those I put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with the appropriate solution. It doesn't take long, but it wont get all the corrosion off the board. You don't want to leave the board in too long because other damage could happen. You can also use warm soapy water and a soft...

BTW: I've also seen Bad Nuchips, Bad LS240's, and poor solder joints on the transceivers. To fix a poor joint, it's best to remove the chip, clean up, then reattach it. I've had mixed luck only applying flux and hot air. Check clock too. You should see a 10Mhz(ish) signal on one of the...

On mine, the traces from the Nuchip to UH1 were broken right at the pads. The cracks were really hard to see, nearly invisible. I wound up scraping solder resist from the board and testing each trace. UH1 is common to all slots, so it's what I concentrated on. For the fix, I moved the chip...