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I just released the source to the AMUG Internet Installer (ca 1995) via Macintosh Garden. https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/amug-internet-installer MIT License. Have fun! (Also attached here for archival sake)

So, not wanting to wait for Mouser to catch up and process my order after the storm, I dug through my cap pile and found two Nichicon VX(M) 1000uf 16v general purpose caps. Those are EOL, but they were close enough for now. I pulled and tested ESR and Capacitance of all the caps on the input...

Let's wait on Mouser. I'd like to test them before I pass the list along. I found this older list after I ordered mine: https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/TMYLHKE4FN

Taking it apart for the first time was a bit complex. It was also pretty dirty, so cleaning it and decontaminating the input board took a little while. The longest part was figuring out appropriate replacements for the caps that were in it. At this point, I am waiting on new caps from Mouser...

Quadra 950 Power Supply, Input Board: This one had two leaking caps. Unfortunately, Delta populated C905A and C905B with 16 V, 1000 µF Rubycon VXB electrolytics, a series so prone to leakage that Rubycon later advised manufacturers to stop using remaining stock. As for this board, I pulled all...

Nice! I have a Iisi board that has a bad serial ports and I don't have a replacement 85C80, but I do have a few SIMMS I can borrow the chips from. I might just have to give it a try.

Interesting. This is a prototype and has some programmable logic on it that's probably a different from the final release.

Here's the second one (Prototype Quadra 700)

Here's one from a Prototype Quadra 700:

I have a prototype Quadra 700 and a release version. If you'd like, I can run it on both systems.

A little while I spent way too much time beating on a few of those boards. I played musical ram, pulled and tested all the caps, etc., but never got a single one to work. Finally, I moved the ASIC to a known-good board and it failed. The one from the good board fixed the bad one. I gave up...

If you have access to a scope, check and see if the nubus clock is there, it should be 10MHz. Also, if all the clocks and voltages check out, I poke at all the pins on the SMD chips with a dental pick looking for loose pads. It's more common than you'd think. Finally, and I am not sure how...

I wrote this a while ago for Low End Mac, but it might be applicable to your situation: " I was troubleshooting a DaynaPORT NuBus Ethernet card that wouldn’t link to a modern switch on RJ45. It would start the handshake, time out, retry… Déjà vu.. I ran into the exact same thing with an Asante...

Nice! If only I had that a few months ago when I had to figure out a few things the Bomarc schematic didn't cover that well...

Life time supply: https://www.amazon.com/MECCANIXITY-M3-5x12-0-6mm-Phillips-Computers-Electronic/dp/B0FMWKTLT2?crid=2SVVHRHT9FOV9&th=1. (Silver, not gold tinted, but you can passivate the metal and get a good color match if it matters) (Disclaimer, I have not bought these, but they match...

Snooper is good for some 68k machines, but MacTest PRO is from Apple and is more thorough. Snooper is easier to run, supports just about all 68k machines, and is decent for burn-in of newly restored boards. MacTest PRO can be complex to set up and you need the specific version for your...

Nice and clean too. On longer jumper wires, I put a dab of conformal coating to secure them in place. On this one, it's short enough that you are fine as it is. Good job. Finding broken traces can be a challenge and takes patience.

I'll say the plastic on this one is amongst the better plastics on all my macs. I wonder if cigarette smoke seals off and preserves this kind of plastic. Probably not. But it would be cool to find at least one thing that justifies the hell we have to go through to clean it off.

It varies. Alconox is a good one (comes in powder form) to get rid of most of what you find on boards, cases, metal parts, etc. There are some better ones to remove solder flux, but Alconox is a decent general purpose cleaner. You do need to rinse boards with distilled water afterward, then...