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Nor did my SE/30 board, in the end. But I expect the fact it was sitting and rotting for a few decades had a hand in this, too. (In the condition it arrived, it's a miracle it ever worked.) I'd agree: Go with a professional if you're not eager to learn any soldering. If you do want to practice...

Discharging the CRT with a flathead screwdriver and alligator clip is not very difficult, but the newer compacts (I know the SE and SE/30 have it, at least) are said to have a bleed resistor for extra safety. I usually discharge it to the ground lug, if I plan to work on the CRT or analog board.

If you're afraid of breaking the CRT's neck, the best advice I can give is to use restraint when pulling connectors from the logic board. I think I yanked too hard and accidentally punched mine by mistake, a few years ago.

I always pushed Cmd+W or Return to close the options windows. Saving the settings is a menu bar option anyway. As long as you can adjust them and then save, it should be fine.

The SE/30 did that to me in Netscape 2.0 and later somehow gave Finder "illegal instruction" errors. I may have fixed it by enabling Mode32 and fixing the folder structure on my HDD with Apple Personal Diagnostics. If you're unsure of your logic board or hard disk, APD is one program that can...

I just used that method on an IIsi, before desoldering the slightly-corroded remains of the capacitors' legs. I forgot where I first heard it from, but it was emphasized to steadily twist left or right on the capacitor without pulling on it. I'm personally afraid to cut many things, at risk of...

10/100 switches' auto-negotiation never worked in my experience. I needed to plug my SE/30 into a Leviton 10BaseT switch before I could assign it an IP on the router. OpenTransport 1.3 seemed to work fine. I also needed an AUI transceiver, though, since the PDS card only had TKN and TN for...

It makes sense that the screen's corners stayed square when the ROM was not reading correctly, I think that's a ROM thing. I'm almost certain that the boot/death sounds reside in there, too.

I think I also slightly broke one of my the arms on my SIMM slots, but it cracked diagonally so the RAM still stays put. I wonder how common this mistake is, by now; those things are brittle.

Congratulations! I'm glad it wasn't from a dead trace, since I've only found running a wire to be a safe solution in certain cases.

My SE with the SE/30 logic board has yellow, though it was never actually plugged into the drive until I last worked on it. Now I can see the blinky light so I'm happy.

I have never tried to boot while the machine had no floppy drives plugged in, but I do know that the interrupt-crash thing is perfectly healthy. My SE/30 would get the "distorted" simasi screen, sometimes with a delayed chime of death, if anything major was wrong with the logic board. This is a...

I have one of those as well, though I was not the one who did the recapping to it. I haven't seen anything like that, but the RAM check on boot is indeed super slow. Not sure of the exact time it took, but I do know there are 2MB of memory soldered to the board itself. Not sure if these can...

This exact incident happened to my good tube a few years ago, so I've been using the burnt up one that came with my leaky SE/30 in 2009. If the neck made a mess (mine did) then just vacuum and clean up any little glass bits that managed to break loose. As has been said, the blown CRT is trash...

Whatever reflowing and re-soldering I've done has stopped the screen from jittering around. Though it's still not perfect, there's at least nothing loose or cracked anymore. I've also fixed the centering of the picture and almost have the proportions perfect. Most of all, I'm not stretching the...

There's also Basilisk II, which is light enough that it can emulate a Quadra on most systems. Even a Raspberry Pi 3 can build Basilisk II and run up to Mac OS 8.1, though there's no JIT support in the ARM version, to my knowledge.

About the gunk on the board, I can't emphasize how much I agree about its importance. I got all of the visible corrosive stuff off after I removed the old caps about a year ago, but there was still grime hiding under ICs and such. The board always needs a good wash and dry with something...

If you haven't already, I would suggest using a continuity tester to check that each cap is working. I'm not an expert at this, but I can testify that multimeters have saved me a number of times. Are these caps all electrolytic, or did you use solid ones for the surface-mounted replacements?

That's spectacular! I've always wanted a closer look at the old portables with the compact Mac logic boards inside.

I'm still looking for the culprit, although my CRT is pretty burnt up as it is. The good news is that I put a jump wire on my SE/30 logic board and got it to work correctly again! My current soldering iron is big enough that it risks bumping into other stuff, so I will get a smaller one and...