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Ceramics generally feature low ESR. In some circuits higher ESR is desirable (eg. noise reduction in DC-DC, antiresonance in decoupling). I have used ceramics to replace LB caps without any discernible negative impact. But never 47uf 16v. Where I live, ceramic SMDs above 10uf are really...

I’d imagine they are decoupling capacitors. You’re fine to use ceramics (or tantalums, or solid polymer etc) and you can go higher in voltage, but I would not recommend using all 100uf caps. The majority are rated at 47uf and I’d stick very close to that. There’s no reason not to, 16v 47uf...

For those two I believe you should be able to bodge to the same pins on the next chip over. Eg. pin 10 on U26 -> pin 10 on U27.

I have used “LC only” VRAM on later models (accidentally) and it booted. Not ideal performance-wise to use 100ns on an LC III as @Big Ben mentioned. The LC is notoriously picky about its VRAM, even some 100ns sticks won’t work.

This is wonderful, thanks for doing this valuable work. I often run into Classic analog boards that are fouled by cap plague in the output circuit, I need some of these!

Hey Joel, just wanted to say hello and thanks! My siblings and I fought each other for time to play this game. We played it to bits and explored every corner of the map. I can still remember the box and especially the manual. It had an oddly powerful effect on my family too… the game got my...

Hi David, I have a clean, recapped IIsi and recapped PSU. It boots and works just fine, but restarts immediately after I select “shut down”. This thread has been very helpful! I tested pins 24 and 25 on 68HC05. On 24, I get 3 volts, which drops to 0 on keyboard press. But pin 25 shows 0 volts...

Someone was recently selling Reloaded PCBs with the passives pre-soldered on the Trading Post. This board looks like a good candidate for a rebuild. You’ll need a good iron and probably some ChipQuik to desolder everything.

I bought in bulk too, so let me know if you need one and I can pop one in the mail for you. The film caps I chose are an awkward fit for the limited space so you’ll have to get creative when installing, but they do work fine. :)

Wow! Some, uh, interesting choices made by previous owner / repair person. I’ve never seen that flyback before either. Poor C15. That’s a non-polar cap too, tricky to source a replacement. I think I ended up using those big film capacitors.

A local guy needed to downsize his collection, so I dropped by. Ended up folding down the seats in my car to load up, bit of a blind purchase. I’ve since done an inventory of this pile and I’m pleased. Contents include: -NeXTStation Color Turbo, with display cable and NeXT Sound Box. No...

Oh I’ve been waiting for a GrandVimage thread! A while back I picked up a lot of GrandVimage Nubus cards. Mostly 24-16. The lot also included five of what look to be demo or prototype boards. Two are labeled 24-21, while the other three are 24-HV. I can’t find any real info on the HV, just...

So many upgrades I didn’t know about! That’s great, a 40Mhz Classic. How does it perform? I don’t have a loopback cable for the OrangePC 660, but (and my memory is foggy so don’t quote me on this) I think the 660 and PCfx! were the only two that don’t require one?

I haven’t actually fired it up, do you find it offers much of a performance bump? Looks like it still has to run through the Classic bus, etc.

Nice! Always had a fondness for the IIgs.

I have the guts from a IIsi PSU. It’s pretty clean. Only real damage is to the sub-board with the two very leaky SMD caps (which I assume controls soft power). That’s toast, so I am planning to attempt a Meanwell transplant. If you want the guts to fix your trashed PSU, you’re welcome to it...

Huh! An Applied Engineering TW2325. First real Classic upgrade I’ve seen, I honestly didn’t think they existed. Interesting installation method, using a PLCC to clamp onto the original CPU. I see an FPU socket, looks like there might’ve been a cache card option too? Not much to it, very simple...

Are you certain it’s a proper short? Have you tested for resistance as well as just using the continuity setting? What reading do you get? My probe will sometimes buzz like a short when there’s simply very low resistance. Mac II / IIfx have some circuits like this.

Oh my! There’s nothing quite like buying a random lot of Mac stuff and finding the holy grail inside! (That’s a 100 MHz Daystar 601 on an LC 630 board, of all things. Previous owner did some surgery on the heatsink to make it fit, but otherwise completely intact.)

Egrets get very crusty on Classic IIs. Surrounded by caps. I recapped one last night and the electrolyte had crept under the board directly below the Egret and gunked up the solder and traces on several ceramic caps too.