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TAM actually came back together nicely. Took it apart and re-bonded the CD cover with acetone, and rebuilt the shattered “foot” of the Bose unit using acetone, Tamiya putty, and approximately one million shattered bits of ABS. I was terrified of disassembling thIs thing but it wasn’t as bad as I...

I really love those unibody aluminum Macbooks, I imagine they'll age really well too.

Sad conquest, check out the TAM I just received. Seller did a poor job, one layer of thin bubble wrap between components, small box. All very avoidable. Computer itself is in OK shape, but it was pristine before it shipped. Bummer.

To be honest I'll probably let this one go too. The IIGS was just a hair before my time, by the time I got interested in Apple stuff the computer labs were full of Color Classics and LCs. So I'll probably test and fix these cards (video overlay card definitely needs a recap) and put them up for...

Haha wow this is an artifact! Pure '90s essence.

I have a theory that at least half of all CC analog boards are haunted.

Contents: -AE GS RAM -Roger Wagner -Sandwich II SCSI -IIGS Video Overlay Card -ComputerEyes (video capture card?) -ZipGS Accelerator. And the thing even boots, ROM3.

Hi! First: claanu = chiptripper now. (I'm working on a vintage Mac project and figured my username should match.) I've been finding lots of stuff lately, so I'm making a thread. Earlier this month I bought a sad, broken IIGS. It's clearly had a rough life and I paid a lot for it. Why...

The poster formerly known as claanu.

Amiga of Rochester has a cap list with ESR ratings for a few models including the CC. The adjustment pots on the back of the AB are covered by a little plastic piece, and it's a lint trap. Worth cleaning it up while you're in there.

So I have a Color Classic with dark blotches on the display, and if the degaussing coil is working, it's not doing anything. What did make a difference was placing a couple of small magnets at the top left and bottom right corners of the screen, right on the CRT mounts. That cleared the screen...

I think it's reasonable to expect that they update the BlueSCSI documentation to reflect that limitation, sure. But yeah agreed. I have no time for personal vendetta stuff. Maybe there should be a pinned BlueSCSI thread that outlines hardware concerns and limitations.

I can't help but participate when every other BlueSCSI thread (a project I'm interested in) is hijacked in this way. I've seen the discourse with datasheets at least three times now, the issue is well understood. Frankly, I could say the same thing to you: don't participate in it. As for your...

I have seen the BlueSCSI reliability argument (and inevitable @erichelgeson pile-on) play out several times and it's getting tedious. Frankly, most BlueSCSIs use a knockoff bluepill to begin with so I never assume they're going to be ultra reliable. They're an affordable option to replace...

Caps might cause an issue if you somehow chose wildly out of spec (high impedence / high ESR) for the output section of the analog board, but I think that's really unlikely because even general purpose caps should work OK. More likely it's a bad CRT, that's my guess anyway. But the only way to...

Got a closer look at your pics, looks like horizontal smearing. I'm not a CRT expert by any stretch but I understand it can be caused by interference, poor connections, bad ground, or a failing CRT. Could also happen if you used high ESR caps, but I doubt that's the prob. Do you have a working...

What voltages are you getting? I often have trouble with PP1 on these boards, a good clean with IPA and a turn back and forth goes a long way. Make sure to get voltage back where it needs to be and use non-conductive tools.

If I have the opportunity to grab a Color Classic for $50, I grab it and run. I don’t know if that logic board is fixable, but there are many replacement options. Amiga of Rochester can recap both boards for you and maybe patch up that LB I’m saying this as someone who’s fixed a few of these...

Yes PP1 would be where I'd start too. I often have to remove it and clean in IPA, then adjust. Sometimes the whole part needs replacement.

This was my first thought too. If you have a short on the logic board the PSU will click like that. Could definitely be something with the bodge work, also worth taking a look at the dark patches on those traces to the left of the power connector.