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Depends on what you want. Some of us are in this hobby in part to do the repair / restoration work, some of us just want something that works without having to fuss. If you're the latter, then it's probably best to find someone to do the work for you. Someone like @Amiga of Rochester for...

My apologies - I was referring to the connector where the battery mates with the logic board: That connector has the two 'strips' I was mentioning

Once you remove the diode, you can check to see if a short still exists by testing for continuity between the two battery charger 'strips'. (correction for what I said above - not testing for a short between 5V and GND... it's between the charger voltage and GND).

Unlikely - when these fail their either die or go over spec, but that would blow the fuse first and not the diode. But always good to test it. Should be reading between 7.5 to 7.9V.

Wait a tick - ALL of the keys worked right after you reassembled everything? I wonder if you have some persistent corrosion along the chain somewhere; perhaps a liberal application of contact cleaner at all connectors is in order?

Common failure. To my knowledge the diode is there for reverse polarity protection; you can remove it and still run the machine without it. HOWEVER you'll want to verify there's no short between 5V and GND before doing that, and check the fuse at F1 (found topside over by the batter terminals)...

Agree with @bibilit ... may help if you identify specifically which keys are not working, if a broken trace a pattern will emerge.

Brilliant - thanks! I've been meaning to replace a few and hadn't seen anyone replace the OG CCFLs, just retrofitting LED's.

Very cool. What was the result? And what length of tube - is the same for all?

I think using a basic solder sucker will work fine, no need to subject the old brittle board to so much heat (except maybe as a last resort to loosen up some stubborn old solder). A desoldering gun is best if you have access to one. This is a decent video showing the process using a standard...

Just looking at the Developer Note, the battery charge logic is somewhat described there, pp 36-37, might provide some insight wrt NiMH: https://powerbook.micahgartman.com/dev/dn_140_170.pdf

I used 10, copying the original configuration, reusing all of the components. Hard to say without knowing the charging topology of the PB, but I believe it's not all that clever, and given NiCd and NiMH have different charging profiles I'm not sure show sensible it would be to charge NiMH using...

6V nominal (1.2V x 5). I've built a couple (only one really successful one) using AA flat top NiCd's, fit great but fussy to build (I was soldering tabs on, ideally should use a spot welder). Others have had success with the 6V NiCd battery packs used for RC cars (I have a couple on order and am...

Good question, I'm actually not certain on that point - maybe they didn't know it was SLA in particular. But a battery regardless. My memory of the interaction with eBay was that the battery was the issue.

Yeah, I doubt they're going to start unpacking stuff... but yeah, at least a head's up from them with options would have been welcome. Anyway.... So, your 180... do you have a display cable? These are great with an external monitor. Also, a SCSI adapter is pretty much necessary. Pretty easy to...

There are some very tight regulations for transporting SLA batteries and they can't be shipped via air from the US to Canada without being handled a certain way, so I can't *really* blame them... but what was so bothersome about it all was there was no discussion about it and no recourse to...

I do have a 100 and it ranks up there as a favorite - it needed some work but thankfully was a successful restoration and works great (a little pressure damage on the LCD but you I don't really notice while using it). I've had it for a few years so I don't remember what I paid for it... probably...

Especially compared to most other laptops, I agree the 1xx series is very easy to work on. The only finicky part for me is disconnecting / reconnecting the interconnect (I have pretty large hands), but relatively speaking it's not really difficult. I'd be curious to see how others do it, but...

Same for me - I have (at least) one of each in restored condition for that reason. Congrats on the beauty of a 180 - that screen looks especially fresh (all of my active matrix displays have that brown tint).

Are you able to expand on your testing of the power switch? Just wondering if the switch is stuck / busted.