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Great to hear that cable works, I'll get the 8-pin DIN to DB9. Thanks! Here's the spreadsheet Adrian prepared with the commands for terminal access to the pre-ROM boot: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zsc7ET5fyiOYWj1_AzOgafbrCVFED-7jzLH6ruCiAVE/edit?gid=1499087781#gid=1499087781 He...

I have plenty of good DB9 capable PC's here. Just can't determine if that 8-pin Apple printer cable would line up with the correct DB9 output, or RS-232 COM port input. A null modem adapter might be necessary to cross the Tx and Rx between terminals, in order to get that to work.

I have a good SE instead of a IIci, would an SE and Zterm work, with the same cable you used?

Rather than try to visually inspect this board for broken traces, it's time for a diagnostics program. In this episode of Adrian's Digital Basement: he uses a modem cable (8-pin to 25-pin), converted with Laplink cables, to connect to a PC's DB9 port with Terra Term - in order to obtain error...

At least I didn't make it any worse. Need to check the Reset and Clock lines today. Is there a way to check the ROM without a spare or replacement?

Made it through the Data Pin Matrix, all pins and continuity check out. Need to put this back together, and start looking for reset and clock signals. Do have an ATX extension cable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L88HJ9X

The Pin Matrix Data chart insists pin N is the last pin of UK8, the CPU. The Pin Matrix chart lines up correctly if you ignore there are only (13) pins, and pretend the last one is N.

Has anyone here successfully completed the SE/30 Data Pin Matrix? I'm showing that the columns in the chart don't match the CPU Pin numbers, but everything else lines up. Example: I'm in CPU pin K13, but it tones at ROM Pin 16, at D8, Pin 10 at S1A and S3A, and Pin 1 of the FPU. The colors...

Got the CPU traces covered, and the ebay socket fully installed. Checked every last Address line on the Pin Matrix, all of the pins are there and connected. Will do the Data lines tomorrow.

Got most of the socket installed. There are some areas that look to have exposed traces, so I'll fix those with UV solder mask, and then finish the remaining pins. Pretty sure if I don't fix those exposed areas, a short would occurred.

Got the new CPU socket's. Dropped right in, and looks good so far. Will solder this in, and begin the Pin Matrix testing.

That flyback transformer looks in bad shape, that's likely where the burn marks are on the back of the board too. If that flyback is not working, that board isn't of much worth, unfortunately. You could try hooking the SE logic board, to your SE/30 analog board/PSU, to see if the SE logic board...

That horizontal line on the screen is where I would start. You can download the repair book, The Dead Mac Scrolls: https://archive.org/details/mac_The_Dead_Mac_Scrolls_1992 On page 49 it begins to list the steps for troubleshooting a horizontal line.

Much appreciation for the knowledge and info, thanks! I'll try to repair the stock socket before the ebay socket's arrive, but I'll solder an ebay/machine pin socket to the LB when it gets here, and test all of the traces and connections on the Pin Matrix, that way. Then decide where to finally...

A scope is always nice to have, but a microscope/magnifying light might be better. I noticed your row of U-chips is pretty corroded, specifically UE8, and UF8. There's probably more corrosion elsewhere, but zooming in you can see the rotted pins/traces, with just a camera phone and the zoom...

Got to thinking about when you said "technique", is that for the cheap ebay socket, to make it fit? Since I've not seen the problem yet with inserting a 68030 in to a cheap ebay socket: is the issue because of the alignment of the pins, or the diameter of the pin sockets, that causes issues...

I searched here earlier and others said the ebay socket worked for them. I'll look at repairing my stock socket again, but it was having continuity problems, and some of the solder that came off, was like the corroded solder from my UE10, where it sticks to everything, and globs together...

Thanks for the replies. I'm hoping to never have to remove the CPU again, if it goes in once, and all the pins have continuity, I'm happy. Are you guys saying that won't be possible with the ebay socket?

Went ahead and got the 128 pin FPGA socket from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276784142022 Mil-Max wants $30 before shipping.

Got the socket out, probably should have tried Deoxit on the pins first, as it looks good under there. Unfortunately some pins came out of the socket, and seem to be a bit rough. Should I spend time trying to repair this socket? Is there a good alternative for sale?