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Another option I think you have is to remove the lever from the microswitch within the battery bay. I read about that somewhere. Then you’d be able to install the dead battery without affecting the PRAM backup, though it still seems wrong to have a dead battery in there, doesn’t it :)

That’s exactly what I’ve done, you just have to squeeze the clip at the end of the slider with a pair of small pliers to get it to slide off the battery. Then, I found a piece of double sided tape (the thin kind) applied to the bottom of the ‘hole’ (the lower casing) works to keep the front...

So in the end, on the display where the bottom quarter intermittently and then permanently failed, it turned out the capacitor juice had rotted through almost all of the flex ribbon traces where they are soldered to the PCB. I hoped I could repair the connections and gave it a try, but some of...

Thanks :) I feel this is a likely cause - when it failed, it was intermittent and sensitive to displaying certain patterns (like the startup checkerboard background) which would then make it ‘fix itself’ for a while. This suggests to me that electrolytics would perhaps ‘cushion’ these transient...

https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/se-30-time-frozen.40797/#post-441488 seems to be the relevant thread :) I notice in the last photo, there is a small DIP chip and crystal oscillator dedicated to the Real-Time Clock. Now I guess the task is for croissantking to find the same items in the...

And two days later, it was back to how it was. :( Plus, my other LCD now has a similar problem, but only affecting the bottom quarter of the display, with the other three-quarters completely unaffected. These LCDs do my head in! I wish I knew what was failing. I start to wonder whether the...

It felt a bit like that today in NZ when daylight savings started, but only by one hour. Ummm… what a bizarre fault. If I had to guess, I’d say the time-of-day clock isn’t dividing the oscillator frequency correctly. A relatively high frequency is divided into small ‘ticks’ for accuracy (i.e...

Turns out that a similar-aged friend from a long time ago (used to live at my place; used to be my ‘boss’ at an electronics shop) can help me, as he now lives in Maryland. I decided to simply forward all the packages there, so that he can not only split the batteries for me, but also have a...

Do you mean that turning the brightness knob to the left does not dim and turn off the backlight? If R257 is open-circuit; the backlight will not be working. I think the situation of having the brightness stuck at maximum is probably not too bad :)

I guess it’s a blessing in disguise when the trackball wears down its support posts and sinks into the assembly; as it does, it helps protect the screen :D Enjoy the restore! Perhaps do all the logic board capacitors first, since the screen seems to still display even when its capacitors need...

What voltage is on that battery? :D Probably best to run without the battery unless it is at least somewhat close to correct 5.4-7V range. You can unclip the front of the battery (by sliding it off) and use it on the front of the Powerbook for cosmetics but it needs a bit of thin double-sided...

Fair enough, bibilit :) I have a 2MB board in my PB100 that has printed on the PCB “For PowerBook 100/140/145/160”, and in my other PB100, I am using another 2MB RAM board (two chips each side) that was originally from a 170 I thought, but I respect that not all boards will be compatible with...

Indeed - I see what you mean :) Fortunately the guidance was not to use that pin unless the expansion was to replace the system ROM (which is on board for the PB170), which seems unlikely to me. But I guess nothing is ever absolutely certain. “♦ Note: If you are designing a RAM expansion card...

My experience is that a memory module that fits the PB100 will also fit the other 100-series models. I think they all have the same connector and an 8MB upper size limit. Going the other way (from PB170 to PB100) there may be a physical size problem with fitting the wider board in the PB100, but...

Hello; this is an odd way to seek out a ‘pen friend’, but here goes… I bought three PowerBooks from three eBay sellers in the USA - two 520c and one 540c. I live in New Zealand, so I had the packages sent to the NZPost freight forwarding facility in Portland, OR. They won’t ship them to me...

Sorry to have hijacked your thread, Bolacore - but I do wonder whether we have related difficulties - my ghosting/contrast problems were also split vertically (top half/bottom half), like yours. Can I suggest in light of my accidental success today, try standing the display on end and spray...

The most bizarre thing happened today… After numerous attempts to find a fault with the LCD, shortening the input ribbon cable, cleaning/reflowing the driver IC pins (you can see why in a photo below, I felt sure that was a short!) and an attempt to wash under the same driver ICs in case...

Strangely, my PowerBook 100 LCD started doing something similar the other day. It is different though, because mine is flickery all over and doubles up/washes out pixels and lines, rather than having some of the display perfect and other parts all black. That seems like a logic board fault to...

How long did you hold down both reset+interrupt buttons for? - 15 seconds with power connected? (instructions say to have all power removed, I discovered it worked only when plugged in). I found these buttons difficult to push reliably with my fingers… The screen went from blue/black to ‘off’...

I just made myself a ‘printer cable’ (crossover cable) with Mini-DIN8 plugs and 3m of nine-wire cable. I was delighted when it worked - my Powerbook G3 Wallstreet (9.2.1) and my Powerbook 100 (7.1) can now see each other, and read each other’s files! I must admit, I was baffled by how I shared...