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Awesome - Thanks! I ordered enough components to fill up the 5 pcbs I have. One of those PCB/part sets is spoken for - for the other four I'm now envisioning connecting them in together to drive 13 Macs off of one keyboard and mouse (1 Hootswitch driving three other Hootswitches plus the...

Hi @saybur - My PCBs showed up a while ago and I'm not just finally ordering the other parts that weren't placed by JLCPCB... I see there is an extra ADB port noted at J1 which is optional. Can you confirm what that is for? Also, looking to confirm what the TWI connectors are used for. Thanks!

Thank you for this! I wanted a Jasmine drive so bad back in the day, but they were much more expensive so I settled for a crappy Hard Drives International external drive when I added an HD to my Classic. I am a bit surprised to see a CMS mechanism as original fitment and not a Quantum to be...

I don't love hot air as I have convinced myself it can't be good for the board or components to make the entire package so hot the component can be removed. So I use chipquik for this and frankly it's super quick and not hard to clean up. As you noted a bit of practice on how much to use goes a...

@zigzagjoe Does the kit support VGA external video as well? (It looks like it does from the pictures above). If you have an external monitor connected, does the internal LCD go B&W?

That looks incredible! Another kit to add to my ZZJ collection. My wife doesn't like you but maybe this kit will finally convince her that these upgrades are a necessity.

I'm following this thread with interest but I had to stop and note that I laughed out loud at this.

I was just going to suggest the power switch as well. I have had a couple of Sony PSU power switches fail with the same symptoms and it's a known issue. I was able to repair them by taking the switch apart (be careful to not lose the small ball bearing balls) cleaning it all with deoxit and...

Dear Santa Claus, I know what I want for Christmas.

That's a good point on removing the low melt solder. I am also very careful to make sure I've fully cleaned my soldering irons tip (sometimes using a different rag/wire cleaner to ensure I don't have any chipquik on the tip when I go back in to resolder the replacement parts as I'm sure a bit of...

Two tips (one is a physical tip): 1. Get a thicker solder iron tip if using wick as the larger thermal mass helps when dealing with ground planes that suck away heat. 2. Where I'm still having issues I throw in some chipquik (low melting point solder used for smd removal generally). Adding...

I took a gamble and went with the updated "B" version. I'll report back if I have any issues.

Has anybody tried the 2024b yet? I'm looking to get my order in and not sure if I should stick with the "A" version or try the "B". Thanks!

Looking forward to an update on the condition of that logic board!

Sounds like a video signal issue. Try reflowing the pins plugs on the logic board plug that goes to the analog board. Also worthwhile to try swapping logic to analog board cables with the 512k.

I really like these drives - other than this potential issue which is a challenge across a number of drives and manufacturers they are pretty reliable. One note, I think this is actually a half-height drive, not a full-height drive. It is taller than the later third-height drives though.

I think there are other solutions now but I run Debian on a VM with a hacked version of Netatalk 2.2.6 (because 2.2.6 needed some patching) and CUPS (and have had this setup for years). That allows my Macs and IIgs to see my network printers as postscript printers (whether they speak postscript...

I still have to order the pcbs but I sure hope these are as fun to build as ScuzNet! That was a treat! :)

I think @LaPorta was just suggesting buttons on Hootswitch instead of a complex switching model (ie moving a cursor from machine a to b) - At least that is what I was thinking. Until I watched the video I wasn't sure how switching worked but it looks like you can change at the device or with a...

Can you tell if the CRT is working, ie any static or similar noises? I would take a look at the analog board to logic board cable plugs and resolder them at the analog and logic boards. I'd also check each wire on the cable for continuity as well.