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Done some work in past few hours. I've replaced the memory before with some from the LC III. I now decided to put the original memory back. At first I had about the same results, but then I reflowed each solder joint of the chip with a lot of flux and now I it chimes with an error chime, but...

I tried this mac after almost 6 months. I still hope that I might be able to fix it, as it is a very nice machine. Tried it today and got some activity, but not much. I hit the reset button about 30 times, and I got blank screen about 30% of the time, in other cases, I got patterns like these...

I pulled out the Power Supply board and the Analog board and did a quick ESR check. Three caps were a bit high, but still within the tolerance window, but I replaced them anyway. Currently I don't really have much replacement caps, and all of them were quality Nichicon-chemicon brand, which...

Did a logic board reset and it worked for a while, but after about 10 minutes it still started to act up. No arcing snaps were heard anymore in about 2 hours of operation, so I believe that there must have been somekind of whisker or dust accumulation and it arced beacuse of that. So...

I powered my trusty old iMac G3 Rev A after about 2 years. It powered right on, and it stayed there, until the sleep timer kicked in and machine went to sleep. When I wanted it to wake up, it did wakeup, sorta, but the screen was blank with the green light on. When I turned it off via a power on...

Yeah, however I thought that these boards are only 4 layer (bottom, ground, power and top plane)... If it is in a layer that I can't see, is it even possible to repair it somehow? I also reflowed the capacitors on the bottom side, but it also did nothing. Also replaced the memory chips... It...

I finally made some progress. I managed to get the chime and white screen. It looks like there is a broken trace or perhaps a component that likes heat. If I heat the board with the heatgun in the area underneath the Egret chip it will chime sometimes, sometimes it will do a jailbar pattern...

Thanks, The Egret is fine. Well, I would be glad if there was any cap goo, but as I said, this board was very clean. And trust me with that, as I recapped at least 50 old Mac's boards, so when I find a clean one, I know it. I cleaned it with a mixture of degreaser and distilled water about 4...

Ok, I've swapped the Egret from another Classic II (Rev. 1) board, but it didn't help at all. The Egret chip was definitely okay, as it works okay on the other board. Also when I tried the working board with the Egret chip removed, it was completely dead, the exact opposite of what the broken...

I am returning to this board after 2 months, the situation is the same. I've pulled all the small chips, U1,U2,U3,U4,U5,U6,U7,U10,U11,U12,U15, but it will only display checkerboard wihtout U10 present (Egret). Others don't make any difference in operation. I also did the RC1, RC2, RC3 - no...

I removed the U1, U2 and U4. Also removed the U14 RAM chip. There is no cap goo damage. See the attached pic how clean the traces are Still the reset line gets stuck on and I get blank screen. I believe that something connected to the U10 Egret chip must be shorted as without the Egret chip it...

Thanks. I'll do that. ASC chip is which one? Hmm, would the bad ram cause blank screen error? To clear what I've written before: the EGRET chip is not the culprit, as when I swapped it with the one from LCIII, it didn't help at all (I got blank screen). However without the EGRET, I get...

I swapped the EGRET with the one from the LC III, but I have the same error. The reset line gets pulled low and nothing happens. So perhaps is also this EGRET chip dead, but I suspect a problem somewhere else.

I have a dead LC III logic board with major battery leakage. I'll swap the EGRET. What this EGRET even does? ADB and stuff? Should the board boot to the insert disk icon without this chip? I tested the board with the case removed. Sometimes I tested it without even the board in the computer...

I was looking at the hot air gun on my desk for some time now. And I figured, prehaps is the sound IC dead, as I soldered the wrong capacitor. So I took it off. The problem however, presisted. Then I pulled the U10 (EGRET, 341S0851) and now the reset line isn't stuck anymore. Finally some...

Roms are in correct places... I've pulled them a few times and the pins are like brand new. Also found out if I leave the board long enought powered off, when turned on, the reset line will jump to a 3.2V for a second and then drop to 0.2V..

Thanks. The board was super clean to begin with no visible goo damage. There was very slight leakage under some of the caps when lifted, but no corrosion. I cleaned now the board about 3 times, the last time I left it in isopropyl alcohol overnight and then dried it. None of the pads are lifted...

Ok, I got the 68030 pinout and traced the reset line. It is being pulled low.

I figured that. SE/30 has manual brightness adjustment. I borrowed another Classic II from a friend and swapped logic boards. My analog board is fine, as I booted it up with friend's logic board. So my logic board is clearly completely dead, as it also won't start in his Classic II. It also...

I've soldered the new caps, but it is still dead as a dodo. I probed a using an oscilloscope around the board, but found no activity, just voltages sitting there. Only the oscillators seem to be running... After about 15 minutes, only the CPU and the VLSI chip got a bit warm, other chips were...