Search results

There aren't any filter capacitors between the AC mains and the ground as these are Y2 EMI/RFI filter capacitors while the Mac Plus only has 3x X2 filter caps who sit between the mains near the power switch. However since these are behind a fast 1.5A blowfuse, it's unlikely they trip a standard...

The board was fully cleaned with pure Isopropanol on both sides. I checked the complete PCB under a magnifying glass, didn't find any issues. I also tried the procedure of quickly sliding it in and out with the power switch on, multiple times to no avail. Eventhough I measure power from the...

I recently recapped 2x Color Classic logic boards. One of them works well and turns on immediately from the keyboard, with new Pram battery installed. The other one remains dead, tested in the same machine. I measure around 3.5 volts on the ADB ports, so it gets power from the Pram battery...

I'm planning to recap my IIGS monitor since it's over 20 years old. What would be the best capacitors to do the job. I'm used to recapping logic boards and PSU's, however it's my first monitor. Can i use general purpose radial electrolyte caps or are high frequency or high temperature versions...

Adjust the Brightness pot on the Analog board: set the contrast control maximal first and then adjust the Brightness pot so that the screen is stable. You will probably see lines now when it's full open ? Also adjust the Focus pot on the Analog board when necessary. If you don't have the test...

Resolder the connector on the Analog board that holds the wire harnass to the logic board, better refresh the solder on all 3x connectors ( Analog to CRT board, to logic board, to deflection yoke ) I think it's either a bad solder joint there, the cable between analog and logic board is also...

Discharging he CRT does not remove remaining charge of the other capacitors on the Analog board. However, it's unlikely that after a few minutes there's much if any charge left in them. A simply solution to discharge them all at once: plug in the power cord, power on the Mac and then pull the...

Measure your voltages +5 +12 and -12 on the external FDD connector and post them. The +5 volts will probably be much too low. How does the plastic of the P1 connector look ? Refresh the solder at the back of the PCB. Replace the Ram modules with others as the vertical or horizontal lines...

For the Classic it's likely the Analog board as the capacitors used are of very poor quality. The capacitors there are in worse chape than those on a Mac 128K Analog board.

You can't change 1uf 50v caps with 10uf 35v, voltage can be higher as the original one but not the capacitance.

Have you checked the -12v line that feeds the Flyback for voltage drops during HDD/FDD operation ?

Then it's probably the bourns filter on the right side just above the FDD connector if I recall well.

If both the PSU and Analog board are recapped and both +5 and +12v lines keep stable when the FDD is used, then it's probably the bourns filter. Do you still have the stock hard drive or a larger high rpm model ? If the latter, it can be drawing more power the PSU can handle. Disconnect the...

I have used an Acard AEC-7720U combined with a 2.5" 8GB Transcend SSD IDE drive with 2.5" to 3.5" convertor. Even though Acard says the AEC-7720U does not support hard drives, I have got zero problems with the setup. I don't know if it works with other SSD or IDE hard drives. The Acard...

Unless you have a very good deal, the Acard SCSI to Sata adapter are unaffordable. I see them selling for around 250 USD. I have used an Acard SCSI to IDE adapter with an SSD IDE drive of 8GB, SLC chips, in my Mac IIFx and the thing it bloody fast and silent. Another option is to keep your...

Be carefull with swapping the old SCSI drive with a larger high rpm drive: the power consumption of these drives, especially during spinup is often more than the SE's PSU can handle. Best solution is the SCSI-CF if you want a larger non-stock drive.

If you doubt the Ram, then test it with Ramometer for example for 24 hours. If the height of the spare 16MB modules you have is too high to slide the logic in the frame but not higher than the available space, then you have to insert for example the left side in the frame and then pry the metal...

To exclude the speaker on the Analog board: do you have a spare 128K-Plus logic board around to test the speaker ? Otherwise a multimeter meter will do as well to verify it's not shorted. I have seen 1 logic board in my collection with a faulty speaker: it was shorted, as result the sound chip...

It does look there's a wire soldered from the sound chip ( just under the serial number sticker ) to a resistor in the sound circuit. Looks like the board had sound issues in the past.... If the resistor still good ? I have a parts Plus logic board here with a good sound chip: I can try to...

If the logic board is working fine, check resistor R20 on the Analog board. It should be 100K. If this one is open, you get an all white screen and the brightness cut-off doesn't work. I've had this issue with one of my SE's a few weeks ago. If you haven't recapped the PSU and Analog board...