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You'd need a jeweler's lathe. If I had one, I'd probably use it. Nowadays since the floppy would be used rarely, it probably does not matter.

Probably not. The contamination doesn't look like an oxide. Its more tar-like. Probably the oil breaking down in the sparks from the motor.

Not quite. Though you could probably cross a drive with a nerf gun and have some fun. Probably wouldn't be that good for reading floppies afterward, but it'd get the attention of the user.

Eject motors getting weak over time has been a thing with vintage Macs since... well, since they weren't vintage. I've accumulated a small graveyard of them and finally decided to crack one open and see what was going on. First step: getting in: You have to desolder the tabs (or wires) that...

I'm happy you got it. I've noticed on a few different boards from the era that when a capacitor near an IC leaks, the only way to fix it is to remove the IC and test every trace. In the case of UH1 on the IIci, it seems more susceptible than most on that board.

Evaporust works well on corroded iron or steel, but I haven't seen it work with the copper corrosion you often get on boards like this. I use it sometimes to clean frames for older all in one Macs, and also power supply cases, floppy drive parts, etc. The best way to deal with moderate to...

So, when I get one of those I put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with the appropriate solution. It doesn't take long, but it wont get all the corrosion off the board. You don't want to leave the board in too long because other damage could happen. You can also use warm soapy water and a soft...

BTW: I've also seen Bad Nuchips, Bad LS240's, and poor solder joints on the transceivers. To fix a poor joint, it's best to remove the chip, clean up, then reattach it. I've had mixed luck only applying flux and hot air. Check clock too. You should see a 10Mhz(ish) signal on one of the...

On mine, the traces from the Nuchip to UH1 were broken right at the pads. The cracks were really hard to see, nearly invisible. I wound up scraping solder resist from the board and testing each trace. UH1 is common to all slots, so it's what I concentrated on. For the fix, I moved the chip...