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Looks like Digikey has some. https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/2N6394G/1475319 Also mc68-2g looks like a close cross and is readily available. Anyone used this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115579539929?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pPzsxZjPS3u&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-USjPcGzR1m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Or you can get some fabricated at jlcpcb.

I wasn't sure if you meant the schematics or the chip, so I figured I'd cover both. All chips have a notch, line, or indentation to represent the top of the chip. In a dip configuration that will mean the first one to the left will be pin 1 (see pic). You count around the chip to find the...

Yeah... I would't be super concerned about matching it exactly. I use a 16ohm speaker on the test bench to test any boards I work on. As for stressing chips... The Sony Chips don't drive the speaker directly (the part I'm assuming you're concerned about). The speaker is driven by U92 and 2A...

Amen to this brother... I have had so many problems with these boards! Especially the brown mask ones.

Awesome! Enjoy!

Keep it simple. If it was working before you started then you need to check everything you worked on. Verify the pads are still connected to their trace, verify you got polarity correct on your caps, verify you used the correct cap, and check the whole board for any accidentally dropped solder...

To expand on what I suggested last night. I watched the video multiple times (so many times my wife commented the song I was listening to was very repetitive 😁) to verify the issue. The screen looks like it is getting wider on the right, but is pulling in on the left. It looks like the...

If I was to guess that looks like a vertical linearity issue. Because it's intermittent I'd be looking at solder joints/ parts around pin 1, 10, and 12 of the tda1170 (according to the datasheet).

Since you had battery damage I would check continuity of all your data / address lines. . Start with your rom socket to cpu. Seen a number of issues there. After that I would check everything going from rom socket to the mux'. There is a pin to pin matrix that someone was nice enough to make...

In actuality it's four cards, but I get what your trying to say. It speaks volumes to how well these newer cards were designed by their creators.

I can vouch for the fact that the pds slot isn't limited to two cards. I've been running Bolles 040 setup and a 30v grayscale for at least 6 months with no issue, and here is a pic of the 'stack' running with the cf card as well.

Congrats! That board looks great! Some new caps and a clean and you should be good to go. A far cry from your original battery bombed one!!! If you haven't found a replacement cage for your cc I'd make sure to sand down your old one and prime it. I had a classic that had a battery bombed...

Sounds like your b+ is varying/starting to go bad. Technight (TheTechknight) did a youtube on this recently. It was on a Mac TV, but same principle. Check it out and see if it matches your problem. It's near the end of the video, but I'm sure he'd appreciate it if you watched it all and gave him...

You could always opt for a modern replacement like a Zuluscis or Bluescsi. There are no rubber bumpers to worry about. It doesn't have the same ambiance of a spinning drive, but they work great.

If you're using the bluescsi in the se/30, there is a solder pad you can jumper to make the led brighter. I replaced mine with bright clear led, and it looks super bright now! I actually prefer it over the yellow (personal preference, of course).

It's the voltage going to the pico. It's correct. From bluescsi's website : This is the internal voltage that the Raspberry Pi Pico is receiving from the BlueSCSI and should be around the 3.3V mark. If this is substantially lower (ie: below 3.2V) then you should look at how your BlueSCSI is...

If your using a pre made image you might want to boot without extensions first. Are you using an upgraded rom? If your trying to use a.7.5 image on the se/30 that will be the reason it's hanging. You have to resedit the system file to get it to work correctly...

if it's working fine with the composite monitor I'd agree with Finkmac. Arbee previously mentioned the monitor is prone to cold solder joints on the flyback. Since you've had it capped I'd check there first. You might also want to check your adjustment pots (brightness). They can cause...

The last card is a Radius Precision color 8xj You should be able to look up everything from there, but the resolutions are : 512 x 384 640 x 480 @ 66.7 Hz or 60 Hz 800 x 600 @ 75 Hz 832 x 624 1024 x 768 @ 60 Hz, 65 Hz, and 75 Hz 1152 x 870 1152 x 882