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The secret is I'm using software I wrote myself. It's still got quite a few rough edges on it (undo is... somewhat unreliable) but it lets me lay out a simple board very quickly.

Not a problem. 🙂 There are now 3 left unclaimed.

Production status for anybody who's interested: The package from DigiKey that FedEx misplaced finally turned up and now is in my hands. That's got the PICs, 8-pin IC sockets, the RS422/485 drivers, and bypass caps. The TVS diodes from China via eBay arrived earlier than expected (yesterday...

Odd... I did respond to that; I don't know why you didn't get the response (forum glitch???); and yes, you are on my spreadsheet. Also, in answer to your other question from that - I'm not using JLC's assembly services; I'm doing the soldering myself. JLC is the manufacturer of the bare PCBs...

Re: rust. Take off all the metal bits and apply a rust converter like Naval Jelly (it's basically phosphoric acid). After washing it off, you can consider coating it with a rusty-metal spray paint (obviously, keep the paint out of anything mechanical like the floppy drive; or electrical as it...

Yup, you’re on the list.

FWIW, I just went through the thread; and assuming that I didn't miss anybody; 11 of 15 hats are currently spoken for.

Finally got a chance to finish the other board layouts that needed to go out in the JLC order... so 15 TashTalkHat PCBs are now in production. I expect the PCBs to arrive before all the parts do, though... (eBay's slow boat from China is, um, slow). I hope ya'all like blue soldermask, because...

If you mean sprites in the sense that Amigas have them... there's no hardware for that on the Mac Plus. The best you can do is CopyBits; or if you know that the pixels always align on byte boundaries, an assembler fragment that copies them as whole bytes as fast as possible.

Ditto. I've never seen a tablet that did absolute positioning without a driver; and we had tablets from both Wacom and CalComp that were ADB. The MouseSticks that we had would output the same number of units moved regardless of speed; so after you ran it into the edge of the screen it would...

OK, I think I'm looking at about $15 each + shipping; add an extra $2 if you want stacking headers instead of regular ones. That leaves a little margin to cover my miscellaneous costs (solder; flux, gas to go to ship it, etc).

I'm not looking to get rich off of these; so I'll be charging close to actual BOM cost plus actual shipping. I have access to UPS, FedEx, and USPS (which in your case gets delivered via Royal Mail); and I can send them via any class you want. I'll have a cost breakdown soon; I just need to go...

OK, I'm going to order parts for an initial run of hats. How many should I get? Enough for 10? 20?

Hmm... just a random thought - how about sticking them in a vacuum chamber before the electrolytics are put back on? You can get reasonably large ones on eBay, so.... ???

Interestingly, both DigiKey and Mouser seem to be out of inexpensive RS422/RS485 TVS diodes. Had to order them from China via eBay. Won't be here til' December, though... so until then, hooking it up to anything that could exceed the ESD protection of the ISL83076EIBZA is strictly verboten!

Yes, but you can't always get a Mac-specific cable. Hence the jumpers. TVS diodes will be added... as mentioned, it's a preliminary layout. I generally put them on everything unless the chip already has it built-in.

Added an ICSP header and some jumpers to isolate the ICSP pins on the PIC from the other devices during programming.

Finally got a chance to get some work done on the hat... It's setup to fit directly on top of a Pi Zero-W, and I wanted to put the pin names for the Pi's GPIO header on the board's silkscreen, but there just wasn't enough room. I also don't have any ICSP pins for programming the PIC on the...

I haven't forgotten about my promised hat layout; I've just been crazy busy for the last week or so...

I would check the power supply voltages before re-connecting it, just in case. New power supplies can also be had as well, the 5v/12v output it needs is very common. As for repairing the drive itself, if it’s actually malfunctioning then the issue is more likely going to be physical; and you...