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I like this project. I've been planning on making my own drop-in VGA replacement for Q630 DB-15 monitor-out boards.
Definitely keeping an eye on this one. :)
Stick a tall heatsink on it (well, as tall as you can fit). It will be fine @ stock speeds.
Any same-sized fan with an equal or higher voltage rating will work, but you might have to replace the connector with the one from the old fan.
You also have the option of attaching a 120Ω (or similar...
Definitely at least remove the PRAM battery. Also, you may not even know that your caps are leaking, as it can hide under the caps or other components (especially the PSU caps!). Eventually that goo is going to cause damage... so in this case, "saving time and money" would be replacing them...
Could be a few things with the drive. If you want it, I have an 800k drive out of a Mac SE you can use. Free except for shipping cost, of course. It's already packaged and ready to go.
The switch may not be playing nice with the card. A lot of these older cards will only run at 10 BASE-T, so in instances where your supporting hardware isn't connecting; that's usually the issue. You can mitigate the problem by installing a throttling network appliance inline between the card...
The speed of the processor is determined by the logic board... there is no such thing as a "33/40MHz 68040". Although, 68040's can have different masks (the coolest being "L88M") which make them run cooler, and more stable.
You definitely don't need a fan on the processor. The chip is around 47x47mm, so something like this would work fine.
Funnily enough, I've seen a few clueless Q/A sites recommending HUGE heatsinks like this for a 68040. Really made me laugh!
By the way, I recently accidentally ordered a few...
Mirroring what Uni said here, the 68040 doesn't require a heatsink unless you run it at or above 33Mhz.
Your 68040 uses a PGA-179 socket, so get a heatsink for that socket. Or measure the processor and find a stick-on heatsink of the same size. Or, you can order several smaller heatsinks that...
The modern mode (in the screenshots) runs well on OS 9.2.2 in Classilla, and I've tried simple mode on System 7.6.1 in IE 4.01. I plan on testing those other browsers as well as Netscape.
The ADB hardware spec distinctly reserves a whole pin on the Mini-DIN for sending that "power on" signal. Pin 2, I believe. That pin is connected directly to the PSU, no software interprets it at that point, so it's a pure hardware power-on button.
Ah, well you won't see tables on this software unless you activate simple mode. The modern portion is all lovely modern CSS with divs.
Here's some Alpha screenshots (Yah, those are Mac OS icons.. just placeholders):
I'm quite surprised by some of the advice in here, especially considering I haven't done that much research myself.
Tantalum capacitors should be at least 2x-3x derated to prevent early failure, if not more due to the violent nature of a failure, which involves thermite. Also, a Tantalum...
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