Search results

Oh yes, they only appear to go up to 10.4 officially, ill put 10.5 on the eMacs and maybe 9.2.2 on the bondi blue iMac and 10.4.11 on the grape. I am glad to have a G3 again, last one was sent to the dump years ago. It was an indigo with a DVD drive and 10.4, it was great for watching movies.

The two iMacs are great on the outside, and their CRTs look sharp for the ? that shows up, Ill buy an IDE to SD so I can get one running leopard, the grape one has loud noises coming from the HDD and the bondi blue one has no hdd sound.

What I mean is that I cut out all of them and confused a few, I just want to know which cap goes where, I cant find a sheet listing C1, C2 and so on for the 240V version, only 120V.

All 4 work, both iMacs appear to have a dead hdd, luckily ide to sd card is much cheaper than scsi to sd. Both the eMacs are fully functional.  All 4 appear to whine and crts are a bit blurry so I may have to check inside.

Hi everyone, partially recapped my Mac Plus waiting for the other caps from RS and I forgot the values of C5, C6, C10, C18 and C12 (all axial ones) and C31 because I had a headache and want to make sure they are all the right ones.

Found a listing of 2 iMac G3's and 2 eMac's, no power cables, 1 keyboard and mouse for imac g3 and 1 keyboard and mouse for eMac, 3 of them work, haven't tested the one that is said to not power on. 50AUD for the lot so I bought it.

Made a conversion mistake

This is what im thinking   4700pF, 250v Box: L=13mm = 47nF 250VAC Metallised Polypropylene X2 Capacitor https://www.jaycar.com.au/47nf-250vac-metallised-polypropylene-x2-capacitor/p/RG5234    474K, 400V Metal Poly: L=23mm = 470nF 630VDC Polyester Capacitor...

Thanks for reminding me, forgot these ones: - 2x 4700pF, 250v Box: L=13mm - 1x 474K, 400V Metal Poly: L=23mm

I purchased replacement caps for all electrolytic ones including the power supply, made sure every one was rated 105C and over, I am looking forward to re-soldering the joints and replacing the caps and seeing if it will turn on. 

So basically, this Mac does nothing. Just wondering if that can be caused by caps and solder joints alone or do I have to look at replacing resistors and other stuff too.

List doesn't matter anymore, just need to diagnose.

Hi, got a Mac Plus for a great deal but all it does is make a pop kind of noise, sort of like my Mac SE did when it was working well, I believe this is the CRT turning on, it also makes a tiny little whine, some of the large caps on the left look like their heat shrink has been pulled downwards...

The logic board looks good, analog board I didn't look at too long, Ill take a closer inspection tomorrow afternoon. The system appears to make a single pop noise and a very faint whine after that, no chime, no screen.

Here they are:

Doesnt chime, no picture, back battery is tested dead.

Not in the best state, came with wrong mouse, an ADB one, apparently turns on but nothing on screen. I'll add photos when on computer.

CRT started to fade and flicker just before I ruined it (Never turned it on after, never will). Here is some close up photos of the unit.

Ok, I will replace it, but probably in a month time. Before then I will replace all the caps on the logic board with proper axial caps instead of the radial suntans on there (which are really badly soldered on), leave the PSU alone and finish the analog board recap, ill also try and find a good...

Cheapest one shipped to Adelaide is $86USD on ebay, ill probably have to look harder and on local sites or sell the machine.