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Just my 2 cents. Those Magnetek units need to be fully recapped in my experience as I had 2 of them that were completely blown, and majority of small caps were reading extremely high ESR / low capacitance. The always on 5V standby power supply also cooks the PCB and some of the capacitors...

Oh boy! Mine was also filthy, but nothing compared to this. I used some strong general purpose cleaner / degreaser and lots scrubbing with toothbrush, and rinsing with water jets. Wish you good luck. I think zener diodes do have markings on them, so it should not be too hard to replace them. Of...

R955A and B are both 180 ohms. If ZD1 and ZD2 are blown, then also both switching transistors are most likely blown...

Oh well. I remembered that I must have another 8100 PSU somewhere, and found it in the attic, and it is 100% identical, and working. So I opened it, and checked the component values. R955A and R955B are 180 ohms (0.125W). So I replaced those resistors with the right values, and the power supply...

I pulled out the exact same PSU I had lying under my bench for years. Back in 2015 it blew when the computer was powered on again after 15+ years. The last time I had it apart, I replaced some components on the 5V trickle supply as it was blown. Next I also discovered that one of the switching...

Which voltage rail of the PSU is shorted to ground? Are you sure all of the capacitors are oriented right way ? Is your motherboard known good (tested working)?

I had to recap a 8100 way back in 2015 when it was locking up/crashing in system. None of the caps were leaking, but they tested mostly out of tolerance (high ESR)

Vertical line is caused by failing LCD panel, so nothing will fix it, except replacing it with a different panel.

For much faster navigation and search I cleaned up (straightened) the scanned schematics that were provided on this forum, and did the OCR, so you can CMD+F (or CTR+F) the document. As I said, the Sawtooth mainboard is quite similar to the Digital Audio one, but of course there would be some...

And at last, I managed to repair the logic board. Long story short, it was the SI4467DY P-Channel MOSFET that shorted from gate to drain (in layman's terms: from control input to the power input). I used the PM G4 Digital Audio schematics as a reference (sadly they are not the best quality)...

I managed to repair the power supply, it had a shorted tiny diode on the primary side. The Mac now turns on, but shuts off after 2 seconds. No sounds or any other stuff is present. I am testing it just with CPU installed, and nothing else. PSU is tested OK, as I ran it for an hour with load...

Hey, In the attic I found a forgotten Mac that I stored there almost 20 years ago - back in 2008 or so. As the title says it is a PM G4 Sawtooth (AGP graphics). I would like to get it going. The case is in really nice condition, with no yellowing going on, but it has issues: 1. Power supply...

I think the main reason is the spring that loses tension after 30+ years of upwards pressure.

Yeah, but perhaps the OP can restore the images by reuploading them on this forum. 2021 isn't that far away still.

Cool, but the images are missing!

I am sure there is a way to reset the BMS, but probably needs some special software or even hardware. Having such a large value, I think the BMS probably has encountered integer overflow so its capacity has "rolled over". Value of 65483 (mAh) is very close to 65536 which is 2^16. There was a...

Any possible way to fix this issue with my PowerBook G4 battery? It holds charge, but the capacity is reported wrong, therefore the gauge percentage is not correct. I tried charging and discharging it few times with no improvement. Thanks!

I can also confirm that I repaired multiple LCIIs that all did this. Every time the problem were capacitors. They are just bad. And the first one that I came across with this problem was back in 2011, so at that time the machine was "merely" 19 years old, this is the same age now a G5 iMac or a...

Those are standard DA7052A (TDA7052A in SOIC-8 package) from what I can see. I see they have them on Aliexpress and eBay...

Update: it has been now running flawlessly for last 6 hours. I only still need to sort out the battery issue. I was thinking of putting a CR2032 there, I think it will work, despite being 3V instead of 4.5V. P.S. For recapping, I used 25V rated caps for 12V rails and 16V rated caps for 5V...