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Thanks @saybur! That updated firmware did the trick for the IIgs keyboard. I have now successfully tested my Hootswitch with my SE-style keyboard, my IIgs-style keyboard and an AEKBII. I have also tested it on my IIgs without any issue. It did not work with my Kensington TurboMouse 4.0...

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@saybur So it works fine with my AEK II, but not with my Apple Standard Keyboard (i.e. the keyboard that shipped with the Mac SE) or my Apple ADB Keyboard (the keyboard that shipped with the IIgs). It also seems to NOT allow the mouse to work when either of the two non-working keyboards are...

Reading a blog post on BMOW it does seem the flipping back and forth of the address ID is normal. So it seems after that happens the Hootswitch just stops doing anything on the bus. Not sure why yet. May need the debugger.

As an aside, I create a 3d printed case for the Hootswitch for once I get it working. Very pleased with how it turned out - the LEDs line up perfectly and look quite good. While you can see some printing imperfections in the photos, you don't really see them in person. Will share the STL...

I updated my ancient version of KiCad so I could load the schematics and it does seem like everything is connected as it should be. With the schematics I was able to verify the operation of J10 so had jumpered that and verified I had 5V at the ADB ports. The Hootswitch starts up and I can...

I haven't had any success as of yet. I'm not exactly sure of theory of operation here but it seems the soldering is fine as I seem to have good connectivity from all of the ADB pins (except Power On, I can't see where that's going) and then it seems like I have connectivity from the digital...

I assemlneed my first 2024b board and built and loaded the current firmware (I used the firmware from the main branch - not sure in hindsight if it's the same firmware as the b branch or not so will need to check that out) The device powers up and switches when the button is pressed (I get the...

Awesome - Thanks! I ordered enough components to fill up the 5 pcbs I have. One of those PCB/part sets is spoken for - for the other four I'm now envisioning connecting them in together to drive 13 Macs off of one keyboard and mouse (1 Hootswitch driving three other Hootswitches plus the...

Hi @saybur - My PCBs showed up a while ago and I'm not just finally ordering the other parts that weren't placed by JLCPCB... I see there is an extra ADB port noted at J1 which is optional. Can you confirm what that is for? Also, looking to confirm what the TWI connectors are used for. Thanks!

Thank you for this! I wanted a Jasmine drive so bad back in the day, but they were much more expensive so I settled for a crappy Hard Drives International external drive when I added an HD to my Classic. I am a bit surprised to see a CMS mechanism as original fitment and not a Quantum to be...

I don't love hot air as I have convinced myself it can't be good for the board or components to make the entire package so hot the component can be removed. So I use chipquik for this and frankly it's super quick and not hard to clean up. As you noted a bit of practice on how much to use goes a...

@zigzagjoe Does the kit support VGA external video as well? (It looks like it does from the pictures above). If you have an external monitor connected, does the internal LCD go B&W?

That looks incredible! Another kit to add to my ZZJ collection. My wife doesn't like you but maybe this kit will finally convince her that these upgrades are a necessity.

I'm following this thread with interest but I had to stop and note that I laughed out loud at this.

I was just going to suggest the power switch as well. I have had a couple of Sony PSU power switches fail with the same symptoms and it's a known issue. I was able to repair them by taking the switch apart (be careful to not lose the small ball bearing balls) cleaning it all with deoxit and...

Dear Santa Claus, I know what I want for Christmas.

That's a good point on removing the low melt solder. I am also very careful to make sure I've fully cleaned my soldering irons tip (sometimes using a different rag/wire cleaner to ensure I don't have any chipquik on the tip when I go back in to resolder the replacement parts as I'm sure a bit of...

Two tips (one is a physical tip): 1. Get a thicker solder iron tip if using wick as the larger thermal mass helps when dealing with ground planes that suck away heat. 2. Where I'm still having issues I throw in some chipquik (low melting point solder used for smd removal generally). Adding...

I took a gamble and went with the updated "B" version. I'll report back if I have any issues.