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It's probably worth the $9 or whatever a new set of caps would cost on the Astec. I just redid one and it was not so hard; the heatsink assembly on the end opposite mains entry has to come off to easily access all the caps but that was only three 3-pin devices and a couple of ground lugs to...

Tastefully neat goes a long way though. I have an Amiga 1200 with the A1200.net clear case - sanding and painting the metal shielding a flat black was a big improvement. I think my Mac's frame would look great in a flat black too, not the scratched-up gray it is now.

@techknight for a clean appearance then would it be OK to use a shielding paint to make the back of the tube uniform? For guitar use there is a conductive paint for shielding inside pickup cavities. (or the original aquadag of course).

You have a strange way of thinking to come up with that, napabar!

@elemenoh I just took a good look at these sheets, this is fantastic work. Now you've done the hard work of reading those fuzzy old schematics and people have had a chance to review them, a move to a working schematic in KiCad or similar is so much easier. And from there a PCB. I wonder if Apple...

What mounts on that big heatsink you are heating?  I guess you have already looked at the back of the CRT under the sheet of white plastic covering the solder side of the small board? I just found two cracked joints on mine that were the cause of a problem I was sure was on the analog board.

I really appreciate the Mouser carts. They ship all over the world, they have a huge range and if your first filter term is "in stock" you get no nasty surprises when a part is something you need quickly. Second, if an EE already went to the trouble of making a cart it's saving me a lot of time...

@CC_333 Thanks - I did spend a couple more hours removing and testing everything, tracing through the schematic as I went. Then I noticed the yoke connection seemed a bit wobbly as I went to reconnect the board hoping that reflowing solder might have had some effect since I found no bad parts. I...

It’s a stunning case. The only thing that worries me is that with everything on display I would be looking for a CRT with a perfect silvered back. Maybe powder coat all of the metal frame pieces too. Clean up all the blobby hot glue on the analog board. Make all my SIMMs match. And of course a...

More strangeness... front brightness knob does nothing. Focus turned all the way clockwise makes a more or less normal focused picture. Anti-clockwise becomes unfocused but also increases brightness Cut-off has very little effect and can not be increased to show raster lines (unless Focus is...

Floppy: every floppy I try to initialise in the SE/30 fails. Formatting proceeds normally until it's time to verify, then there is a message "Re-verifying" before I get the failure message.  Capacitors? I have yet to replace those. The entire drive has had a clean and re-lube according to...

Soaking in vinegar? I would not do that, you want to neutralize any leaking alkaline electrolyte (capacitors, battery) but not allow the vinegar to eat away at any metals for hours. It is a weak acid but still an acid, will clean a penny in a short time or corrode and pit it given long enough...

Congratulations, that would be really satisfying! 

On the thickness problem - you know the orange tape that you sometimes find in electronics? Polyimide is the material, the translucent gold film. It is heat and distortion resistant and lasts forever, I have pulled it out of old electronics and it looks like new. It is not conductive which is...

Progress... I took the keyboard apart and found an interesting hack. The '*' key's stem was broken off, the keycap sitting in the broken switch with cleverly bent pins glued to the keycap keeping it there, a spring making the key feel like it worked but of course it did not! I did not have a...

My number one tip is to keep the suction going until a second or two after you have moved the nozzle away from the desoldering site. If you stop the suction and let the solder harden before it is all the way into the glass tube you are in for a long and painful cleaning process. Mine is also a...

I did have that Weller iron, but when I switched to a Hakko 942 (now discontinued - FX-951 is a near current equivalent) it was night and day. The Weller is OK for many things but I think when you get into boards like this the better iron helps. (but as I said, my iron couldn't melt that bit of...

I just did this - literally the worst pad on the whole board, the ground plane soaks up all the heat. I have a good iron that has something like 80W behind it but I could not clear this hole either - no matter how much flux, fresh 60/40 solder, suction and wick I could not get the last bit of...

That's the one! I think it's going to be a lot of work but will end up looking good. 

Hi everyone - first post. I have looked on eBay for the SE/30 for ages but never before been quick enough or not been outbid. Well I finally got one. It's not perfect but I think it's. good buy! First, the box. Shipping was from Western Australia to me in Victoria, it travelled about 3500km in...