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Kai – glad you're taking this on! If you ever want another badly Maxell bombed Classic LB, I'd be happy to send you one via first class parcel, on my tab.
I'd be interested in financially supporting a project but not because I intend to ever use one – I just think that the community would gain a lot from learning how to design and assemble an accelerator. Hell, if said person creates really good work logs, I'd love to learn something from the...
I'm not too optimistic about using silica bags. I tried storing a PB180 screen with about 2 pounds' worth of calcium chloride dessicant pellets; after a month, the screen tunnels at the same rate.
Same! This thread has inspired me to take a good crack at learning digital design. As an early Christmas gift I bought myself an FPGA trainer board and a textbook.
Been there, done that :( Every collector's bound to do it at some point, sadly.
I'm still keeping my busted CRT around, though – one day I'll find someone with an angle grinder to cut off the neck, so I can stick an LCD screen behind it.
There's a slight historical irony here: IIRC, Dan Dobberpuhl, who led the Alpha design team and then the StrongARM team, eventually ended up founding PA Semi, which was in turn acquired by Apple – and the rest is history.
Same! Instead of exhaustively measuring things, was just thinking of separately copying curved parts onto engineering paper, scaling it to the correct size, and compositing multiple images like that in Photoshop to get front views and profiles. (I don't have a scanner, so I sure hope that my...
I think I found the little mini curve duplicator tool you're looking for! A company named MicroMark makes small version of trades tools...
https://www.micromark.com/6-Contour-Gauge
Hmm, I'm thinking about alternatives as well: I live in a really humid climate, and I'm wary of using an oven. I wonder if simply putting the screen in an airtight container with a really good desiccant, like a molecular sieve, could work, leaving in the screen as long as possible, repeating as...
Thanks for the video, I have another PB180 coming along its merry way, in unknown condition...
Would you be able to use a microfiber cloth, wet it with IPA/xylol/Goof-Off, and apply pressure onto the LCD screen to remove the adhesive traces? Other than that, I can really only think of soaking...
Forgive me if this is a simple question, but how do y'all measure the radius of curved edges/fillets for reproduction? I'm trying to figure out how feasible it would be for me to make a repro version of a PowerBook 1xx screen rear case, and with a good set of calipers seems like the toughest...
Thanks for the tips, everyone. Gave the 3D printed insert a try – I did screw up, though, since now the inserts are rotating loose inside the case lid, even after JB Welding them down :( Anyone know any good way to fix in a screw insert in some ABS?
All – after coughing on my PowerBook 180, the dreaded hinge failure seems to have happened. I'd like to replace the lid of the PB180 (i.e. the top case which the screen hinges screw onto.) Would y'all happen to know whether other PowerBook models have compatible parts, and if so which? PowerBook...
Two things come to mind – first, what error messages do you get? A Sad Mac screen will have an error code that might tell us something. Second, I notice the shunt on the expansion card is on "SIMM NOT INSTALLED" – what happens when you move it to "SIMM INSTALLED", with the extra RAM in, and try...
As someone who's learning, too, how did you remove the '020? I imagine you'd use hot air + lots of flux, but I'd be extremely worried about putting too much thermal stress on '020, I'd expect it to be the most fragile component.
All – any good recommendations for a DIN-8 to USB serial adapter that I can use to connect an eMate, or a Mac printer port to a modern Mac?
I used to use a Keyspan 8-pin serial to USB adapter every time I needed to connect one of my old Macs to my rMBP. Unfortunately, I updated to Catalina, and...
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