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Thanks @Daniël! I remember you gave me some good advice when I was first starting to do BGA soldering, I really appreciate it. The cache is 3.3V so 7410 is a no-go. I do have some extra 7400s on hand, so there's no telling what might happen to this spare 400MHz G3 card eventually...

Thanks all. This started as a series of updates via PM to @Byte Knight, and he encouraged me to compile it into a post. I'm glad I did. @herd, I will take a closer look at the substrate of the broken CPU for you. I don't think much if any of the die is visible. Do you want to dissect it...

While I had the CPU off the card, I did some poking around and found the PLL_CFG resistors. Maybe this will help someone someday: You're probably not going to get much more out of the original processor than Sonnet already did, though; most of these are overclocked from the factory. This...

I sold @Byte Knight an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro that I repaired earlier this year, and he asked me about this card, reasoning that if I was able to repair the video card, perhaps I could repair the CPU accelerator too. I agreed to take a look at it, and here's what I found: First of all, the ceramic...

Hi Mike, sorry to hear about your damaged board. As always, the first question is: which part of the US are you located in?

Hi @haramia, just catching up on this after a busy weekend, I responded to your PM but I see you posted newer updates here. Sounds like you lifted the EECS pin on the VIA chip off the board like I suggested. Weird that you never see it go high. The AT93C46 datasheet states "A valid instruction...

I just came across these connectors and remembered this thread, so I'll drop the link here in case anyone wants to experiment: https://www.surplussales.com/items/107804/db-19-d-sub-male/

My approach when working without a schematic like this is to just get the one with the highest saturation current that physically fits and meets any other known specs. If there's an extreme cost difference, just "pretty high" or "higher than average" is probably enough, considering we're dealing...

Should be pretty easy to find a replacement as long as the markings on the top of the part or still readable (or if someone else can post theirs). That will tell us the inductance. Also need to know the lead spacing. Agree, that's some brittle solder. The rough/dull joints be reflowed with flux.

No, that's not simasimac, but it's better in a way. This is a logic board problem, not an analog board problem. You have working video, just missing a vertical line. Probably a broken trace somewhere.

Thanks for documenting your experience! Glad to hear you got it fixed

As long as you get a later mask, even a 25MHz labeled 68030 should be fine at 40MHz. You might want to slap a heatsink on it, though.

What's the voltage rating on that tantalum? I interpret "686A" as a 6V-rated 68uF cap, but I hope I'm wrong. The original cap appears to be 68uF 10V.

I suppose not 😥

I was too afraid to try it for a long time, but vinegar works really well for this kind of corrosion. Just the regular grocery store 5%, scrub with a toothbrush, rinse thoroughly with distilled water, then isopropanol to drive the water out of all the little crevices. I've gotten great results...

Used Metcal MX-500. This type of iron is head and shoulders above everything else. Example: https://ebay.us/m/jZQhqG

...besides salvaging one from the logic board of a Y2K iMac? I am very skeptical of what I am seeing on eBay and UTSOURCE. Seems like these parts would be trivially easy to re-mark.

Oof, poor GLU chip. Someone will want that board for parts though, there's still some good stuff there. SWIM chip, Bourns filters, etc.

Yep. I soldered in a holder on my SE, but I enjoy soldering. The holder in your pictures looks like a pretty slick solution. That's the first time I've seen it done that way.