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Sounds like a HD issue to me. Are Master/Slave settings still okay? Maybe your original drive was Master and got removed?

There are two versions of ASD for the G5s. Do you have the right one?

And thus inspired, I dug the machine out and discovered a loose video cable during disassembly, which I did to replace the charge board and backup battery. These were parts put together (made a backup battery and replaced caps on the board) before a cross-country move four years ago that I had...

266MHz G3 PowerBook with that look is the Wallstreetiest Wallstreet that ever walked on Wall Street.

I think the Wallstreet had the best of all the PB keyboards, including the Pismo, which people normally rave about. I used my machine for years and years, but it developed some problems with the screen, it got put away, and haven’t yet fixed the old gal. I ought to get it working again.

At one stage I had a IIfx that had been in the home of a chain smoker since new. I swear the tar ran off in rivulets when it got washed, and probably killed aquatic life downstream, but it seemed to have preserved the plastics beautifully.

One of my favourite machines. Squeezing the best out of it is a bit like sailboat racing. Sure, you could buy a big powerboat and go a great deal faster, but that’s not the point.

Yes, and perhaps it is a thermistor rather than a fuse. It is very easy. I have an eMate that runs happily on this solution. I just updated the post with more details.

The cheap and cheerfully battery solution is to buy a 2000ma 4xAA NiMh battery pack with leads on eBay. From China that will be ~$15US. Clip the old leads and the fuse (I think that is what it is) off the old battery pack and replace the leads on the pack you just bought with the old wiring...

Thanks for this. Great to know.

I would run the relevant Apple Service Diagnostic utility (v.2.6.3?) and see what it reports. Also, the calibration utility in ASU seems mainly to relate to fan calibration under load. Here: https://www.macintoshrepository.org/28403-all-apple-hardware-test-aht-apple-service-diagnostic-asd-disks...

I would buy some Varta cells and replace the backup batteries before doing anything else. The 2400c is inordinately sensitive to this.

My Laserjet 4+m works across the board. Most of the old Laserwriters can be made to work as well, by adding the relevant PPD file to OSX. It’s just a few lines of text; the real magic seems to be worked by postscript.

When I first read the topic a few days ago, I thought it was about one of those boxes that people used to stick to the sides of their Macs to put the mouse in when not in use…. You know, a mouse nest. Turns out it was about something else, and then morphed into something else, as things do. So...

Actually, come to think of it, what the 6MB RAM really helps with in the case of the 4/600 is that for things like PDFs and photos, etc.,, there are no more out of memory errors. In practice, that is more important than speed sometimes. I was printing to mine, via a print server, a localtalk to...

The additional RAM (to 6MB) does speed up the 4/600, but not to the point of it being fast by anyone’s standards today. A print server helps if spooling, as it releases the machine from which you are printing. The printer then gets there eventually. Oddly enough, for years I found the 4/600...

Well, I’ve had three of these/ the ColorSync fail on me, and that was starting maybe 15 years ago. If you are good with a soldering iron, maybe; if not, I’d pass — having said which, the CRT is excellent, if and when it works.

I’d take the lid off in order to see what is happening when a machine is slid in. It has been a few yeas, but I seem to recall that there are mechanical switches that trigger the action.