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You can clean the whole area by a bath in vinegar, but I find the connectors usually break off without much effort. You could rebuild the contacts using some sort of RF shielding cut up perhaps into thin strips and soldered back in. Also check the battery itself and bag it up you can unclip...

Mac Pro is doing well as my daily machine. Got over the final hurdle of partitioning the internal 2TB SSD and installing Windows 11 which it probably runs better than OS X. But - that's not going to happen often, I tend to switch to Windows to run some specific PC only apps needing direct...

I would try to pre warm the board, more heat (350 - 370), flux then reflow pads with fresh solder. Are you doing all the caps (quick Google says there are about 7 SMT caps and 3-4 through hole caps)?

No - nothing will fix that! What I meant is finding a PB100 without the pink blotch is rare, had to go through 4 x LCDs before I got a good one for mine. Rubber bumpers on the palm rest to try to prevent same happening to this one.

Right you are, forgot about that part, recently fixed mine with new inductors AND the LCD doesn't have that pink/blotch/LCD damage in the middle where the mouse ball presses.

Probably time to spend a moment looking at the 5200 analogue board in detail, see for any obvious shorted components or cap goo. The CRT (and motherboard) is heavily dependent on this to run.

Both have life which is good! The PB170 hard disk, while spinning, sounds very dicey but see if you can format if after booting from a floppy. If after a few attempts you can't format it, time to look for an alternative. The trackball rollers are probably dirty, although the plastic collar...

You need the utility, the serial isn’t hard to find

Any Takky is a complete hack job, therefore if you didn't do it yourself and take care, there is good chance the mod done years ago by someone else isn't up to scratch :( Ideally you need to tear it down and check wiring, recap the analog board and check the video/VGA mod was done properly...

I'd find another G5, or two, and it's luck of the draw. G5 towers being so big and heavy it's not hard to find a cheap replacement to be picked up locally. These PSUs aren't terribly serviceable nor do they appear to have "common" faults like bad caps etc as with older Mac models.

Well said :) @Harryjames it'll need another mechanical HD to suit, CF isn't great on anything 3rd gen and below - lots of issues basically. This is a good guide on what works and what doesn't: https://yuuiko.github.io/iPodGuide/iPodGuidev2-1.pdf There are some iPod "experts" that suggest...

This is gold, thanks for posting it up. In your travels where we’re most of the leaking/marginal caps in your TAM? I’ve a beloved unit yet to go there however it’s never shown weakness - yet

Nice find, are games better in FPS too? I’m sure you could inject the Tiger nVidia kexts into Leopard, see OSX86 forums.

No, short of a replacement 1st Gen motherboard I have a perfect in appearance 5GB that simply refuses to sync over FW, charges fine. It does however have Will Smith’s complete album featuring “Getting Jiggy Wit It” which is acceptable. Check your FW port isn’t damaged as first course. There...

Have come across plenty of early dead SCSI HDs, some low hours, others supposedly reliable models, it's just luck of the draw. They're keepers if you find one now that's quiet and without bad blocks and will probably keep going for many more years. If not, there are enough solid state...

Really unusual, you've done some thorough testing, OpenMark seems to have hit a wall. I don't think there were any better third-party drivers under OS X for nVidia cards, and they are terribly unoptimised with little comparison for gaming FPS compared to Windows drivers. See here for example...

Yes, I believe it'll work just make sure you save the PC BIOS just in case. If it was a V5 Mac card with VGA and DVI, you can only plug a monitor onto one (not dual output) so there is some sort of sense wiring to do this.

Tough crowd when you don't have a 840AV case ... looks fine to me enjoy what is the nicest 68K made.

It's the PCB varnish that's been slightly discoloured from the IPA, nothing to worry about

Yep leave it be. You can remove it by freezing the area and with a sharp knock it'll pop off (what I've had to reluctantly do with a couple of GPUs with bad fans integrated into heatsinks, acetone on the core removes the epoxy) but there is always chance of damage here.