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To expand on what I suggested last night. I watched the video multiple times (so many times my wife commented the song I was listening to was very repetitive 😁) to verify the issue. The screen looks like it is getting wider on the right, but is pulling in on the left. It looks like the...

If I was to guess that looks like a vertical linearity issue. Because it's intermittent I'd be looking at solder joints/ parts around pin 1, 10, and 12 of the tda1170 (according to the datasheet).

Since you had battery damage I would check continuity of all your data / address lines. . Start with your rom socket to cpu. Seen a number of issues there. After that I would check everything going from rom socket to the mux'. There is a pin to pin matrix that someone was nice enough to make...

In actuality it's four cards, but I get what your trying to say. It speaks volumes to how well these newer cards were designed by their creators.

I can vouch for the fact that the pds slot isn't limited to two cards. I've been running Bolles 040 setup and a 30v grayscale for at least 6 months with no issue, and here is a pic of the 'stack' running with the cf card as well.

Congrats! That board looks great! Some new caps and a clean and you should be good to go. A far cry from your original battery bombed one!!! If you haven't found a replacement cage for your cc I'd make sure to sand down your old one and prime it. I had a classic that had a battery bombed...

Sounds like your b+ is varying/starting to go bad. Technight (TheTechknight) did a youtube on this recently. It was on a Mac TV, but same principle. Check it out and see if it matches your problem. It's near the end of the video, but I'm sure he'd appreciate it if you watched it all and gave him...

You could always opt for a modern replacement like a Zuluscis or Bluescsi. There are no rubber bumpers to worry about. It doesn't have the same ambiance of a spinning drive, but they work great.

If you're using the bluescsi in the se/30, there is a solder pad you can jumper to make the led brighter. I replaced mine with bright clear led, and it looks super bright now! I actually prefer it over the yellow (personal preference, of course).

It's the voltage going to the pico. It's correct. From bluescsi's website : This is the internal voltage that the Raspberry Pi Pico is receiving from the BlueSCSI and should be around the 3.3V mark. If this is substantially lower (ie: below 3.2V) then you should look at how your BlueSCSI is...

If your using a pre made image you might want to boot without extensions first. Are you using an upgraded rom? If your trying to use a.7.5 image on the se/30 that will be the reason it's hanging. You have to resedit the system file to get it to work correctly...

if it's working fine with the composite monitor I'd agree with Finkmac. Arbee previously mentioned the monitor is prone to cold solder joints on the flyback. Since you've had it capped I'd check there first. You might also want to check your adjustment pots (brightness). They can cause...

The last card is a Radius Precision color 8xj You should be able to look up everything from there, but the resolutions are : 512 x 384 640 x 480 @ 66.7 Hz or 60 Hz 800 x 600 @ 75 Hz 832 x 624 1024 x 768 @ 60 Hz, 65 Hz, and 75 Hz 1152 x 870 1152 x 882

Every iigs I've looked at has had bad caps in the power supply. I would definetly check them. You might not see anything, but once you desolder one you'll smell it! Try one of the bigger filter caps by the power connector going to the motherboard.

Wrong post sorry

Good point! I missed where Cheesestraws asked that. Sound has nothing to do with the analog board monitor section. All sound amplification comes from your main motherboard. No sound could mean a bad mobo is causing your issue, or it could also mean a bad power supply, which leads us back to...

Also make sure to check your deflection coil. Set your meter to resistance and verify you have a reading across your horizontal and vertical coils. Horizontal will read around 8.2 ohms, and your vertical coil will read around 0.4 ohms. If you don't care what your recap looks like (and there...

Haven't seen any with washers, but with a little blue loctite these should work : https://www.mcmaster.com/product/92005A712 Another great place to look for hardware is Boltdepot.com, but they don't seen to have any m3.5 screws unfortunately. Bah... just noticed he linked mcmaster-carr in the...

Phipli released a extension (based on ZigZagJoes's original driver) that allows you to change the clock speed of your lc475 via an application. As you can see in this thread people are trying to maximize their gains via hardware mods, but my lc475 runs quite happily at 42mhz stock (so far 😁)...

This is exactly what I'm seeing too. I can get my lc475 to boot up to 46 (didnt go any higher), but after 42 I don't see any significant gains. Actually, I noticed a little drop on some of the tests (speedometer). Running a full 33, 512 vram, and 128meg.