Recent content by shirsch

That looks similar to the case that came with my Hootswitch. On the one I have there was no practical way to fasten the PCB to the bottom (standoffs too small for any screw I had) and the top similarly had no means of keeping it attached. It does look nice, but I needed a different solution.

I should mention that the round button extension must be removed in order to get the PCB positioned over the internal locating pins. You can push it back on afterwards.

I used OpenSCAD with the 'YAPP' template to design a box for my O.G. Hootswitch. Here are the sources and a 3mf if anyone would like to print up their own. My Prusa Mk4S was having some first-layer issues, so ignore the uneven finish on the top.

I have storage bins full of 32 and 72 pin SIMMs. Way too many to inventory.

Thanks for the explanation! I didn't realize that needed to be done when using the software-only speedup. Time to put my LC475 back on the bench.

Is this mod strictly for the replacement PLL, or will it help stabilize software overclocking with the OEM chip as well?

I'll second the suggestion on Joe. Great guy! He's exactly who I had in mind when I made the suggestion about partnering on the Lisalist.

I will definitely want one when they become available. Great work!

SMD packages don't sit completely flush to the board. If you use #32 bare wire there should be plenty of clearance.

All is not lost. It looks as if all the lifted pads are adjacent to via's. Run some thin through those holes and flow solder in from the other side. You should be able bend the wires outwards on the top and solder them to the DRAM pins. Only one of the holes seems visibly obstructed and can...

Joe is great people! I've had nothing but positive experiences dealing with him.

Docker *hates* me, but perhaps I'll give this application a try.

From my experience a battery is required in order to get video display.

I've had very poor results when attempting to remove caps with hot air. Solder that's been attacked by electrolyte does not conduct heat well. If you really want to go in that direction you'll want a pre-heater.

Yes, according to Joe's web page it's a fork of the HootSwitch project.