Recent content by GRudolf94

The only STN machine I have with me atm is a PB520, and that's a slightly different panel IIRC. I can have a peek later and see if I come up with anything else. Check the lower data bits just in case, but it'd be weird if they happened to be undriven. I also think there should be more voltages...

I... Think I might need counseling after seeing this.

Ha, I had a recollection of already having explained how that works - and it's the thread you linked. Most likely cause is a missing bias voltage to the lower row drivers. Check continuity, and compare voltages on each pin at the top row drivers with the bottom ones. Which voltage rating did...

That should work. Your board should be fixable, too, although that'll require component-level rework, obviously.

Excuse the crudeness of the drawing - this is the best way I can visually explain this. Even though that connector is different on the newer panel, and it happens to match 180deg off, the positions in which the wires go probably didn't change. This is an oversimplification of what a display...

They've been leaking on 12" G4s for a while, now. I would assume older machines are all at risk. IIRC the machines where I removed them all worked fine without a replacement.

If they're both the same panel, the pins are probably in the same order, and the connector needed to be different. By installing it backwards, it's possible that you damaged the new panel, and you almost certainly made the 3.3V supply to that fail by shorting it - which is likely why you get...

No. It has nothing to do with adhesion. If the layers were to separate you'd have a permanently damaged display. They don't, can't and won't re-bond. This (probably) has to do with moisture dispersed in the liquid medium. Heat alone will do nothing - it is simply an aid to draw out moisture...

The diffuser is many layers. The acrylic panel behind those is the lightguide (and should be fine). That looks like liquid/mold damage. It's possible to buy replacements, or just salvage them from scrap LCDs. Careful handling with gloves is necessary - skin oils and any abrasion will cause...

I've been very lazy to finish and test my designs, but maybe now this one will be done.

Not only schematics but it seems a disk (and ROM?) dump too?

The funny thing to me is that they try and make a ceramic chip look like epoxy, with that textured top. Try and wipe it with some acetone. Sometimes the original markings are still readable. It could be a 33MHz part, just an older mask.

First number called out is typically the capacitance - in this case, 33uF.

It could be the opposite like you said. I haven't looked at that datasheet in a good while. Hm. Indeed. It's a value that can be experimentally obtained, though. If I solidly characterized that value, and it met spec, then I'd have no qualms using that. Realistically since we're dealing with...