Interesting, so I’m guessing that the driver developers hard coded “Ethernet” as the port to look for on that. I’ve never successfully got my PC Card to work with networking, I wonder if that’s why. I’ll have to give it a try sometime.
It’s plausible that original bridge has damaged other components on the board and caused the shorts there, so don’t just look for other trace related problems. A thermal camera may come in handy here’s
Oh this is perfect! I need to replace the PSU in my 8100 with an ATX and I was trying to figure out the logistics of getting it into the existing PSU and making it look stock!
I guess it depends on if there’s any other potential sources of an over voltage. Might be worth probing the pins from a known working board and then comparing the voltages to that to the broken one before swapping… though personally if it were me I’d probably just swap and pray to the flying...
So, my educated guess is that the soldering around C10 has shorted a 5v line to a 12v line. I have a vague recollection of someone else doing that around here. The problem is if that’s happened it may well have destroyed other components on the board too.
First thing I’d do is check for any...
So unfortunately I’ve not had much going on lately conquest wise, but I did get a BNIB sealed copy of Starfleet Academy a little while ago.. ironically I got it before the TV series started, and I’ve only just opened the box now after it was cancelled!
How are you planning to rebuild the 950 lock? I have a 950 but with the wrong key, so I’d love to know how you accomplish this and see if I can replicate it!
I also have one of these, and also the Graphite DVI version that appeared a couple of years later. I'm only missing the B&W G3 version that was identical to yours, sans the colour scheme and had a VGA connector instead. These are nice displays for the time! Yours is in much better condition...
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