Recent content by croissantking

Isn’t that the 12” RGB monitor (M1296)?

I wanted to convert this into a DIP switch block but couldn’t find anything suitable to solder onto the footprint. I have little jumpers that I have to change with tweezers and sometimes they fly off into some corner of the case :P

I would argue it’s not specially the 33MHz bus, but more likely the 32-bit access to ROM/RAM (where most PPC are 64-bit), and the 25MHz 16-bit ‘030 peripheral bus (so disk access and frame buffer performance is hobbled). Architecturally these things were like a PowerBook 500 series with a PPC...

I've now added mine to PLD Archive too: https://wiki.pldarchive.co.uk/index.php?title=Micron_XCeed_SE/306-48 I found a pic of an SE/306-48 with the 20X8 and 20X10 chips, so they do exist in the wild - but seem comparatively rare compared to those fitted with 22V10s.

I fixed up a broken Micron Xceed SE/306-48 video card this weekend - turned out to be a trio of faulty GAL chips. Full journey documented here.

Now that my card is operational, I've been able to test out the JEDEC files attached above. 7 out of the 9 I compiled fully work, whilst one partially works and another results in a non-operational card. ChipFunctionWorks? U1Pixel TimerYes but with glitch - see photo U22Data ShifterYES...

I am testing out your Booster 2.0 (actually 2.1) with my newly repaired Xceed SE/306-48 card. Initially, on one of my SE/30 boards, I saw problems - would get to the grey screen, but then sad Mac and chimes of death. I wondered if perhaps the two upgrades were not fully compatible. But now I am...

Aaand... the card is fixed. I burned the JEDECs I recently compiled to a set of GALs, and swapped them all in. At first, it was not looking hopeful, but after fiddling around with different combinations of the old and new chips I got a working output. The working combination is shown in the...

Yeah, this is one of the reasons it’s tricky to work on these.

The 166MHz card will only work on logic boards with the newer ROM version, but the 117MHz should work in any. I’d suspect bad contact - try Deoxit

Is it possible that part of the Easter egg design is that it gets printed?

These joints look like they could use a reflow.

Can’t see what you’re referring to, please could you indicate it on the photo? Edit: oh yes. I assume OP has scraped back a bit of the trace and soldered the lead to it?

It almost sounds like a dry solder joint somewhere that was marginal before the recap and is now completely broken.

I thought it was rather a fun ask, shame my iBook couldn’t help in the end.