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Safest way to get air into a CRT . . . sans implosion?

Trash80toHP_Mini

NIGHT STALKER
No problem for the 9" Periscope from the classic series, I can knock off the glassblown tip at the end of the CRT, but my 17" DOA StudioDisplay's CRT has a cover smack dab on top of the usual suspect.

Got a dry cut Diamond Blade for my Roto-Zip yesterday and I've got two CRTs to neatly lop off right behind the metal mounting band.

Several options come to mind:

First off, build an implosion containment system and . . .

a) drive a nail into the open (or clear plastic covered?) center hole of teat cover on the back of the 17" CRT

B) drive said implement into the electrode hole

c) spend a little more money on a dremel type diamond bit to grind/drill into either entry point.

I don't have a use for the backside of the 9 incher, but I'd like to keep the faux fanny/contacts intact on the 17 incher . . .

. . . suggestions? :?:

 

Trash80toHP_Mini

NIGHT STALKER
Because! :lol: :eek:)

I could use the original equipment dark glass CRT face and cut down on the Neutral Density Filtration necessary for the MacintoshClassicIIIColorTVp™ Hack for starters.

The 17" Studio Display (DOA Flyback) has been gutted and I'd like to:

a) use the face for a vacuum forming buck to fab a 15" LCD adapter or a clear Plexi MacQuarium front end.

B) keep the hack somewhat stealthy by installing a MoBo in the Analog Board Pan of the Studio Display

_____use the VGA cable out for a secondary monitor in the case of the 15' LCD option

c) use the original glass face for a blacklight/whitelight crossfade lighting system for my PetPlasticFish Habitat

. . . in either case, I'll use the original @$$end of the CRT for Camouflage or plexiform a fake one, depending . . . }:)

Doing a plastercast of the inside of the CRT as a buck for doing a deep draw vacuum formed clear plexi inside of the original @$$end of the CRT would make a very :cool: MacQuarium rear piece! :approve:

 

Trash80toHP_Mini

NIGHT STALKER
pictures are worth a whole lot of words . . . especially my descriptions . . . :-/

SD17MacQuarium-n-MoBo-r-LCD-n-MoBoProject™

Here's a (really crappy) shot of that *&^&*%&^%$ cap covering the blown glass knock-off teat. FEH!!!!! :p

sd17pitacrtneckcover2p.jpg.ee7dfd398e12715dc36f9bd021027204.jpg


 

waynestewart

Well-known member
About 40 years ago I used to drill holes in the glass back of halogen headlights with a regular drill bit. I'd start with a small small bit and progress until I had about a 5/8th inch hole. Always worried about breaking one but never did. Nowadays I'd probably use a carbide drill bit or more likely my dremel.

 

techknight

Well-known member
ohhhhh.. ok. I see where your going with this. hehe.

ive just wacked them off with a thick screwdriver. you hear a loud hisss and thats it. vacuum gone.

 

shred

Well-known member
Under that plastic cover is the usual thin glass nipple. You can usually crush the glass through the plastic cover using a large pair of side cutters or pliers. Another option is to grab one of the CRT socket pins in a pair of pliers and twist it - as if you are pulling it out of the CRT. Usually (not always though) the pin will came loose and let air in.

The usual precautions apply of course: safety glasses on and wear a long sleeved shirt and leather gloves (I use my gardening gloves).

 

Gorgonops

Moderator
Staff member
Stating the obvious and all: Color CRT phosphors are full of nasty stuff you shouldn't breathe and the glass contains more than a little bit of lead and barium. Personally I would *not* recommend following the example of this person so far as just cutting up one up in your house and expecting your Shop Vac to do an adequate job cleaning up the resulting mess.

 

CelGen

Well-known member
Under that plastic cover is the usual thin glass nipple. You can usually crush the glass through the plastic cover using a large pair of side cutters or pliers.
This is the method I was told to do do it as well. I read it in a 1955 issue of Radio Electronics so it isn't a new thing either.

 
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