I guess it’s a blessing in disguise when the trackball wears down its support posts and sinks into the assembly; as it does, it helps protect the screenCool, thanks for the response! There is caps on back of display? Ok, will do that when cap kit arrives.
Not sure of battery voltage as i dont have a charger yet, it’s coming too.
Will check trackball and see. Rubber around display was good, so no damage to screen thankfully!.
Not sure state of drive, will have to wait until it powers up after recapping computer.
will keep posted of progress my first vintage mac laptop restore.
Do you mean that turning the brightness knob to the left does not dim and turn off the backlight?Hello there,
I have a Powerbook 100 fully recapped (including screen and inverter).
Everything is ok including the screen but the brightness control (the one at the right) is not working at all. Turning it dont change anything in the display.
Is this situation also related to R257 ?
Thanks for any advice.
Thanks much for your help! Appreciate the pictures and experience you have had. Hope if goes well. I am waiting for caps now, so maybe a week or two before any progress on it now..I guess it’s a blessing in disguise when the trackball wears down its support posts and sinks into the assembly; as it does, it helps protect the screen
Enjoy the restore! Perhaps do all the logic board capacitors first, since the screen seems to still display even when its capacitors need replacing (just degraded image quality)
The capacitors on the back of the screen are a challenge to remove because they are within a plastic frame. It is quite a major disassembly to get that frame off; the backlight diffuser has to be lifted off and one of the sheets is annoyingly stuck to the LCD. It can be really risky to tilt the frame as it can crack the thin LCD corners where they touch. I ruined the first one; number 2 (shown here) went much better, and number 3 has some other weird ghosting fault that I don’t know how to fix.
So, if the solder joints are clean-looking like in the first photo below, I suggest desoldering the caps without taking that frame off/disassembling the LCD. Hopefully the leakage underneath the caps will be limited and easily cleaned up with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If the leakage is widespread then I guess you’ll have to take apart the LCD anyway, since the cleaning solution can easily seep into the backlight diffuser if you apply a lot. The result looks like Godzilla has invaded the LCD.
I’ve used 0605 MLCC caps to replace those 3.3uF electrolytics. They are easy to fit with the frame in place (third photo below) but are absolutely tiny, smaller than they need to be. Easy enough to solder one side first while holding with tweezers, then the other side.
Tweezers are your friends! My hands are not super steady, probably not bad but I found working with small components daunting at first but tacking down one side of the capacitor while holding with tweezers, using flux to make sure the solder goes where you want, and working fast with the iron helps. I follow the soldering techniques used by Branchus Creations: https://www.youtube.com/c/BranchusCreationsWow, those are dinky little caps.. well, always up for a challenge!
I am much better than I used to be! so should be fun! Yes, learned a lot from Branchus, especially cleaning pads with solder wick and flux..love thatTweezers are your friends! My hands are not super steady, probably not bad but I found working with small components daunting at first but tacking down one side of the capacitor while holding with tweezers, using flux to make sure the solder goes where you want, and working fast with the iron helps. I follow the soldering techniques used by Branchus Creations: https://www.youtube.com/c/BranchusCreations