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Plastic dyes vs. paints . . .

Trash80toHP_Mini

NIGHT STALKER
. . . were discussed back in the day here and over on 'fritter. Is anybody still around who's tried the dye approach with good results to report? Bad result reports would be much appreciated too. I'm doing some peripherals hacks in the Classic Duo PowerBook Style, but the gray needs to be a just a bit darker to match my Charcoal Gray KDS/Radius LCD.

I'm probably just doing an Adjustable KBD, a Teardrop Mouse and a CD Case for the time being.

Any pointers? :?:

 

tmtomh

Well-known member
I've used spray dyes. They work very well, preserving the texture of the plastic.

But they're expensive. In my experience it takes three small cans to spray a medium-sized computer case evenly (like a Iici or maybe a compact Mac).

The dye is not totally impervious to damage - a very shallow scratch or scuff won't reveal the original color, but a medium or deep scratch will.

It is also possible to coat unevenly, if you hold the can too close. So you have to keep it at some distance - which unfortunately means more overspray, which means more of a mess, more smell, and more cans you have to buy.

So I would say it's worth it, if you're willing to go to a little expense and a good deal of mess and cleanup.

 

bbraun

Well-known member
Beyond retr0bright, I haven't attempted to alter the color of any Macs, but in the C64 scene it is my impression paints seem to be preferred. Years ago after doing some reading about it, I used Krylon Fusion paints on some breadbox C64's. After about 3 years or so it has been since the painting, I'm still reasonably happy with the results. The texture is fine, the color seems even enough to me (although does vary with application technique). The only thing I really noticed was the paint does chip off if you bash it against other hard objects, such as the kind of shoving and shuffling that eventually happens on a crowded, messy desk. The good news is, it's pretty easy to touch up.

Anyway, here's my two attempts (in order):

IMG_2666.JPG

IMG_0037.JPG

Something I was wondering about is the best way to replace (forge?) labeling on ye olde macs, after painting or stripping due to retr0bright. Water slide decals?

 

Trash80toHP_Mini

NIGHT STALKER
For KBD Decals I plan to use overlays printed on thin, High Performance Vinyl for signs. The imaging processes for signs have come a long way in the ten years I've spent away from the industry. Since I like to use a customized, embedded KeyPad Capslock layout based on hacking the KCHR resource in ResEdit, I usually wind up with funky KeyCap covers anyway.

63523658.jpg.071f396bcd83aa28ea5f1aeb6e883f5f.jpg


I've been VERY happy with the small fluorescent yellow on black set I used to mod HP_Mini for low light WiFi search & enjoy missions. In almost three years of hard use, none have peeled back, much less come off, and the heavily used keys have gradually shifted to whit on black. It looks funky-cool to me. [:D] ]'>

 

Trash80toHP_Mini

NIGHT STALKER
I've used spray dyes. They work very well, preserving the texture of the plastic . . . But they're expensive . . .. . . I would say it's worth it, if you're willing to go to a little expense and a good deal of mess and cleanup.
Thanks for the quick response, t! I'm not so worried about the expense, I was wondering if it's possible to control how deep a gray can be achieved?

If uneven coating is an issue, it sounds like some parts, like the KeyCaps, might be dyed a bit lighter shade than the KBD carcass?

THX

 

olePigeon

Well-known member
Since we're on the topic, I always though it'd be great if someone did a laser 3D scan of a Mac case (such as a IIci), then stuck a block of wood under a CNC router and made a wood case. Stain and polish. :)

 

sirwiggum

Well-known member
How long before people make 3D scans of classic macs and sell them as miniITX cases?

(And how long before apples lawyers close it down!)

 

techknight

Well-known member
you would need to use a good CAD program with a crapload of precise measurements, then export and run it on a CNC setup so you have a new mold assembly, then injection mold it.

the 3D printing like makerbot just doesnt have the resolution, you see "scanlines" in objects plain as day.

 
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