jibsaramnim
Member
Hi all! It's MARCHintosh, and so I really wanted to give myself a push to see if I could finally fix the display instability my Color Classic has been having for as long as I've had it. This has been a project I've been working on off and on for a bit over a year now, hopefully with your help I'll finally be able to bring it across the finish line.
The issue is a fairly common one I've seen described here many a time, though a recap and reflow (two, actually) both have not yet solved the issue. The display jumps in brightness where it occasionally becomes too bright where its retrace lines (I believe that's what they're called) are visible. This does not happen all the time, sometimes it runs perfectly fine for hours on end, other times it does this song and dance soon after booting or after being on for some time. I can't exactly find a pattern as to when it does or does not happen.
I recapped the analog board myself with components from the replacement kit from Console5, and have gone through and re-flowed pretty much every solder point on the analog board twice. Technically the first time I did that I was a bit more targeted, but the second time I just went for reflowing pretty much every single solder joint on the analog board. I have also re-flowed the video board once, it honestly looked totally fine but I did it anyway just to be safe. I think I did this well enough that the behavior is likely not due to a bad solder joint, but I fully admit that it's still possible that I missed a particular wonky connection. The flyback transformer appears to be in good condition without visible cracks or so, at least that I could find.
I'm thinking that there might be a diode or other non-capacitor component on the analog board that is struggling to keep chugging along. The board does not show signs of burn marks like I've seen in some photos shared here, but that of course doesn't really mean they're not potentially struggling after all these years.
Onto my main question; I've seen the DL21 and DL22 mentioned somewhat frequently. Could these potentially explain the display behavior I described above? Are there any (other) diodes or other non-capacitor components that I should look at replacing? I would love to have an idea which ones I should look into more so I can order replacement parts in one go. As I'm dealing with international shipping costs on most of these things, it's better for me if I can do as much as I can in one go.
I'd appreciate any help you can give. Thanks so very much in advance!
The issue is a fairly common one I've seen described here many a time, though a recap and reflow (two, actually) both have not yet solved the issue. The display jumps in brightness where it occasionally becomes too bright where its retrace lines (I believe that's what they're called) are visible. This does not happen all the time, sometimes it runs perfectly fine for hours on end, other times it does this song and dance soon after booting or after being on for some time. I can't exactly find a pattern as to when it does or does not happen.
I recapped the analog board myself with components from the replacement kit from Console5, and have gone through and re-flowed pretty much every solder point on the analog board twice. Technically the first time I did that I was a bit more targeted, but the second time I just went for reflowing pretty much every single solder joint on the analog board. I have also re-flowed the video board once, it honestly looked totally fine but I did it anyway just to be safe. I think I did this well enough that the behavior is likely not due to a bad solder joint, but I fully admit that it's still possible that I missed a particular wonky connection. The flyback transformer appears to be in good condition without visible cracks or so, at least that I could find.
I'm thinking that there might be a diode or other non-capacitor component on the analog board that is struggling to keep chugging along. The board does not show signs of burn marks like I've seen in some photos shared here, but that of course doesn't really mean they're not potentially struggling after all these years.
Onto my main question; I've seen the DL21 and DL22 mentioned somewhat frequently. Could these potentially explain the display behavior I described above? Are there any (other) diodes or other non-capacitor components that I should look at replacing? I would love to have an idea which ones I should look into more so I can order replacement parts in one go. As I'm dealing with international shipping costs on most of these things, it's better for me if I can do as much as I can in one go.
I'd appreciate any help you can give. Thanks so very much in advance!