elbaroni
Well-known member
Hi all
I have a week's leave, so I'm going through my collection of compacts working out what works and what doesn't. I have a nice 512 (M0001ED) which, when switched on, makes what I think is the noise Larry Pina describes as "flup flup flup". No sign I can spot of leaky capacitors. For what it's worth I have an Australian board - 240v, model number 630-0108. Or 820-0107-D.
Page 24 of Dead Mac Scrolls advises checking CR20, which I gather is this guy:
Checking the resistance I get either 0 or about 80 Ω. Not being enormously confident in my resistance checking ability, I was hoping for a sanity check. Pina says it should be 31/30Ω, not 0. He says nothing of 80.
I'm putting one lead on the nut/washer you can see in the picture above, and one on the solder patch on the back of the analogue board indicated below. Is that the right way to approach this? Or should I be bridging two of the solder points? Grateful for any advice from anyone less dumb at this than I am (which is probably everyone).
I have a week's leave, so I'm going through my collection of compacts working out what works and what doesn't. I have a nice 512 (M0001ED) which, when switched on, makes what I think is the noise Larry Pina describes as "flup flup flup". No sign I can spot of leaky capacitors. For what it's worth I have an Australian board - 240v, model number 630-0108. Or 820-0107-D.
Page 24 of Dead Mac Scrolls advises checking CR20, which I gather is this guy:
Checking the resistance I get either 0 or about 80 Ω. Not being enormously confident in my resistance checking ability, I was hoping for a sanity check. Pina says it should be 31/30Ω, not 0. He says nothing of 80.
I'm putting one lead on the nut/washer you can see in the picture above, and one on the solder patch on the back of the analogue board indicated below. Is that the right way to approach this? Or should I be bridging two of the solder points? Grateful for any advice from anyone less dumb at this than I am (which is probably everyone).