Are RIFAs needed for Plus?
- Thread starter 68kPlus
- Start date
cheesestraws
Well-known member
You should replace them if you can. They are not there because the Plus needs them, they're there to stop the Plus feeding crap back into the power network and screwing up other devices.
68kPlus
Well-known member
That makes sense. I have 4x RIFAs for my Plus, but I still need more soldering skills
68kPlus
Well-known member
True, but I'm not good at soldering at all. I've never really done through-hole soldering.
68kPlus
Well-known member
Do RIFAs have polarity?
cheesestraws
Well-known member
Not unless my memory is really playing tricks on me
Iesca
Well-known member
Through-hole soldering is very easy. Bruce Rayne has some great tutorials on through-hole and surface-mount. You can also watch Dave Murray (The 8-bit Guy) solder new through-hole caps in a Plus and get the basic idea.
They are definitely recommended, as they're part of a protection circuit, as has been mentioned.
As for the Rifas themselves, you can still buy their modern equivalents. They will even be marked as Rifa, though they are manufactured by Kemet. And no, they are non-polar, so no worries on that front. However, you don't necessarily need Rifa-style caps, you can use any similar X2 and Y2-class film caps, as needed.
They are definitely recommended, as they're part of a protection circuit, as has been mentioned.
As for the Rifas themselves, you can still buy their modern equivalents. They will even be marked as Rifa, though they are manufactured by Kemet. And no, they are non-polar, so no worries on that front. However, you don't necessarily need Rifa-style caps, you can use any similar X2 and Y2-class film caps, as needed.
Iesca
Well-known member
These are the ones I ordered for my Plus (I only needed 3)
0.1 µF, 275V, X2-class (x1)
Digi-key #399-7483-ND (Manufacturer #PME271M610MR30)
4700 pF, 250V 1000V, Y2-class (x2)
Digi-key #399-5411-ND (Manufacturer #PME271Y447MR30)
0.1 µF, 275V, X2-class (x1)
Digi-key #399-7483-ND (Manufacturer #PME271M610MR30)
4700 pF, 250V 1000V, Y2-class (x2)
Digi-key #399-5411-ND (Manufacturer #PME271Y447MR30)
68kPlus
Well-known member
I bought these:
They seem to match 100% the original International AB spec.
68kPlus
Well-known member
I'll probably just solder them in the same way the originals are.
68kPlus
Well-known member
My Plus has the later red cap for the 0.1µF RIFA, so it's fine. The two I have are:
- Rated voltage: 250 VAC 50/60 Hz
- Capacitance range: 0.001 - 0.1 µF
Skate323k137
Well-known member
Strongly recommend at least the 1st video in this series; even knowing how to solder, it did wonders for my worksmanship and consistency. It's also excellent at explaining how and why solder works, how flux works, and what makes a good connection.
Phipli
Well-known member
I'll just chip in and say...
Desoldering is more tricky than soldering although you'll still be fine. I'd but a couple of cheap ebay soldering kits (some clocks or christmas trees or something) and build them up, then practice removing some of the components and putting then back.
On a £2 board it won't matter if it goes wrong.
Desoldering is more tricky than soldering although you'll still be fine. I'd but a couple of cheap ebay soldering kits (some clocks or christmas trees or something) and build them up, then practice removing some of the components and putting then back.
On a £2 board it won't matter if it goes wrong.
68kPlus
Well-known member
I did something similar to what you said. I practised through-hole soldering on a no-good board, and I just succesfully did the RIFA recap!
Thanks everyone for the help!
