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AppleColor RGB Monitor Repair

Sideburn

Well-known member
Just got an AppleColor RGB monitor that needs repair.

Anyone know by looking at the screen what might be the issue. I’m assuming caps but first look and they all visibly look ok.

I’ve got diagonal RGB lines and a purplish screen.

IMG_5543.jpeg
 

thellmer

Active member
Is this connected to a Mac or just running with no connections? Sometimes this looks normal when they are simply turned on but not connected to anything. With no connection there are no sync signals and nothing to blank the display, etc..so you are simply seeing a working CRT television/monitor with nothing to tell it what to do and a random mix of phosphors being lit up resulting in some random color raster. If it is connected to a working computer then you have other issues.
 

Sideburn

Well-known member
It's not connected to anything. I have to fix my IICX board first in order to have something to connect to it! lol
 

thellmer

Active member
AH ok. So what you see could just be normal. An unconnected monitor can do various things depending on how its made. Some just sit blank with a black screen but others look like this one. If you see retrace lines (those diagonal lines) when connected to an input source (like a working computer) then usually it's just the brightness control is set too high but even with brightness all the way down if they are still visible there is an internal higher voltage "screen" control that technicians sometimes have to adjust by opening it up. But with nothing connected and the brightness in the normal visible range this is completely normal for lots of old CRT monitors.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
IMG_8136.jpeg
Mine looks like this with no input. So I’d say yours is normal. Hook it up to a Mac and see how it looks.

Edit: on second thoughts, you may have a convergence issue. I see your retrace lines are split into three parts.
 

LaPorta

Well-known member
Note: Neither of those are normal. The internal brightness trim pots are turned up way too high. The proper way to have those set are so that when the monitor brightness knob externally is turned all the way up, the internal trim pot is turned down till just when that pattern disappears and the screen appears black.

All Mac CRTs normally are completely black with no video signal.
 

LaPorta

Well-known member
Back on topic, the OP's monitor is ballooned out to scan way beyond the proper borders that should be there. Do you know if this monitor has been fooled with?
 

croissantking

Well-known member
Ah. I think my photo is before I adjusted the cut-off pot. I definitely have the black level to where it should be now.

The overscan on OP’s monitor is probably correct. I had the same on mine and it looked wrong, so I adjusted it to what you see in my photo. But then when I hooked up my IIsi, the image was very small! I had to bring the H-Size and V-Size right back up to where they were.
 

Sideburn

Well-known member
View attachment 59340
Mine looks like this with no input. So I’d say yours is normal. Hook it up to a Mac and see how it looks.

Edit: on second thoughts, you may have a convergence issue. I see your retrace lines are split into three parts.
Interesting, yeah i have separated RGB lines but this is promising... mines also magenta vs your blue... I hope to have a IICX board running tomorrow. Just pulled the caps off today, cleaned it and fixed a couple broken traces.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
** it arrived with the top left corner cracked so he gave a me a full refund.
This is why I’m glad I picked mine up by car. I have a hairline crack in one corner and I’m sure it would have opened up had it been shipped. Honestly, yours is not too bad though, I’ve seen far worse.

Post back once you get an image on screen!
 

Sideburn

Well-known member
Yeah, I’m wondering how tough it is to get tat front bezel off and then what kind of glue or technique i can use to repair it. I’ve never had much luck with superglue on these old plastics. Clouds maybe dremil out some sends or grooves on the inside to get the glue to stick better and use some epoxy putty or something. Hopefully I can fix it.
 

Sideburn

Well-known member
I just powered it up again (without anything connected) and the brightness / contrast knobs don’t change anything. Is this “normal”?
 

croissantking

Well-known member
I just powered it up again (without anything connected) and the brightness / contrast knobs don’t change anything. Is this “normal”?
Yes, I noticed the same thing. The knobs only do anything when there's a source of video.

In normal use, there is a minimal range of adjustment with the brightness knob (as compared to say, an SE/30), so it's important to set the cut-off pot correctly.

Curious to see what sort of image you get.
 
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jmacz

Well-known member
Yeah, I’m wondering how tough it is to get tat front bezel off and then what kind of glue or technique i can use to repair it. I’ve never had much luck with superglue on these old plastics. Clouds maybe dremil out some sends or grooves on the inside to get the glue to stick better and use some epoxy putty or something. Hopefully I can fix it.

For the front bezel, if it's just the cosmetics you want to fix, I used JB Plastic Weld to get rid of cracks on mine. I had a crack in one corner similar to your monitor (as well as some pits on the outer edges). I filled in the cracks using the JB Plastic Weld (it's like a putty that is moldable and hardens to be very strong). After that you can sand it smooth so that you can't see it, and then of course you will have to paint the monitor casing to hide the repair.

I did not unfortunately take photos before the repair, but the after is in my Quadra 700 thread: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/my-macintosh-quadra-700-clean-up-and-fixes.43433/

There's also a video in that thread about JB Plastic Weld, as well as which paint I used... it's not a direct match but worked for me since my Quadra 700 also had case repairs, so they match.

If you're going to do this, you can mask off the front glass of the monitor (as well as the Apple logo) so that you don't have to disassemble the entire thing. So you can mask the glass so that you can do the repair and paint it. And you can remove the rear case to paint that. That's what I did for mine.
 

Sideburn

Well-known member
For the front bezel, if it's just the cosmetics you want to fix, I used JB Plastic Weld to get rid of cracks on mine. I had a crack in one corner similar to your monitor (as well as some pits on the outer edges). I filled in the cracks using the JB Plastic Weld (it's like a putty that is moldable and hardens to be very strong). After that you can sand it smooth so that you can't see it, and then of course you will have to paint the monitor casing to hide the repair.

I did not unfortunately take photos before the repair, but the after is in my Quadra 700 thread: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/my-macintosh-quadra-700-clean-up-and-fixes.43433/

There's also a video in that thread about JB Plastic Weld, as well as which paint I used... it's not a direct match but worked for me since my Quadra 700 also had case repairs, so they match.

If you're going to do this, you can mask off the front glass of the monitor (as well as the Apple logo) so that you don't have to disassemble the entire thing. So you can mask the glass so that you can do the repair and paint it. And you can remove the rear case to paint that. That's what I did for mine.
YEah Ive done that same thing with an Atari 520 ST cracked case. you cant find the crack anymore :)
 
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