CompuNurd
Well-known member
Let me start this off with a rant: The only electronics recycling facility within close distance is overpriced, unorganized, dirty, smelly, and has downright rude staff. I was going from thrift store to thrift store when I stumbled upon a sign reading "computer recycling". I decided to check it out, thinking they may have a few "breadbox" Macs. The first time I went, I looked, but didn't get anything. They didn't seem to mind too much, since they supposedly sell out of the warehouse when they want to move inventory. Suspicious, since they said the Macs haven't moved in five years. The second time I went, I got an SE/30, an IBM 5150 and 5160, 5153 color monitor, and Commodore 64. I spent $90 total, so that is $18 per item! Around the fourth time I went, there was an older man there. I told him I was interested in old Macs from the 1980s, and I picked two systems from the shelves I wanted to get a price on. I picked an SE and SE/30, keep in mind these are pretty banged up, with rust on the plastic (how?) and several adhesive marks and scuffs. He spent, I kid you not, 45 minutes taking pictures of them and sending them to his boss for pricing. There was another guy there who was very nice and wanted to help me find a good system, but they can't sell anything without going through their boss. Some time later, the older man is talking to his boss, and I hear the owner/boss say over the phone, "$250 now or they are going on eBay tomorrow." I wait for him to get off the phone, then he walks back to the SE (no /30) and asks $250, or $350 with keyboard and mouse. I told him I would be lucky to get $45 for that, then, obviously wanting to get rid of me, he smiles and says, "Thanks for looking." I asked him if he wanted to take my number, in case they didn't sell them for that price, then he said he would rather take a hammer to them. Obviously, I will not be returning. It is amazing that I got out of there the first time with what I did for $90. Also, judging the way the man was talking to his boss on the phone, I had a feeling they knew who I was, and thought I was trying to rip them off. They probably just wanted to waste my time and give an outrageous price so I wouldn't come back, but who knows?
When I left there I got the $20 Strawberry iMac at a garage sale, then bought a boxed Mac SE with all software, manuals, keyboard, and mouse for $90 shipped on eBay. Did I also mention both were in immaculate condition and fully functional?
At the time I bought it, I didn't know how sought after it was; I only picked it because it was the only one that booted to the OS and wasn't in horrific condition. I started reading about how the caps go bad, and how to fix them, but not until I got a floppy disk stuck in the drive and broke the gears in the eject motor. It sat on display for a while, because I was still afraid of opening something with a CRT in it. I soon overcame that fear, and cracked it open. I pulled out the motherboard, looked at the caps, and saw the area around them was not as shiny as the rest of the board. I ordered an SE/30 board recap kit from trag, and heated up the crap $15 iron from Radio Shack. I tried to desolder the caps with two irons, then I tried to use one, then I got the pliers and literally snapped the caps off the board (please, don't do this!). Luckily, I didn't lift a single pad! I took the board outside and power washed it to get all the cap goop off, and dried most of it with an air compressor. Not sure if I recommend power washing your board, but as long as there are no batteries on the board and you dry it with compressed air immediately after, you should be fine. The reason for this is regular tap water has minerals in it, which can leave a residue on the board. This residue is what makes the water conductive, so it is not something you should let build up on your boards.
These Radio Shack irons are so cheap, I had to take a block of sand paper to the tip every 2 caps to remove oxidation! Definitely not the iron of choice for SMD work. Surprisingly, I was able to do the entire recap with one tip on one crap $15 soldering iron!
After I got everything back together, I fired it up.
Full sound, no Simasimac, no smoke, no burning smell. It booted right to the OS first try! Before, there was a 50/50 chance of Simasimac, so I power cycled it a few times, and no Simasimac! I also got some eject motors from CC, so the SE/30 is fully functional!
When I left there I got the $20 Strawberry iMac at a garage sale, then bought a boxed Mac SE with all software, manuals, keyboard, and mouse for $90 shipped on eBay. Did I also mention both were in immaculate condition and fully functional?
At the time I bought it, I didn't know how sought after it was; I only picked it because it was the only one that booted to the OS and wasn't in horrific condition. I started reading about how the caps go bad, and how to fix them, but not until I got a floppy disk stuck in the drive and broke the gears in the eject motor. It sat on display for a while, because I was still afraid of opening something with a CRT in it. I soon overcame that fear, and cracked it open. I pulled out the motherboard, looked at the caps, and saw the area around them was not as shiny as the rest of the board. I ordered an SE/30 board recap kit from trag, and heated up the crap $15 iron from Radio Shack. I tried to desolder the caps with two irons, then I tried to use one, then I got the pliers and literally snapped the caps off the board (please, don't do this!). Luckily, I didn't lift a single pad! I took the board outside and power washed it to get all the cap goop off, and dried most of it with an air compressor. Not sure if I recommend power washing your board, but as long as there are no batteries on the board and you dry it with compressed air immediately after, you should be fine. The reason for this is regular tap water has minerals in it, which can leave a residue on the board. This residue is what makes the water conductive, so it is not something you should let build up on your boards.
These Radio Shack irons are so cheap, I had to take a block of sand paper to the tip every 2 caps to remove oxidation! Definitely not the iron of choice for SMD work. Surprisingly, I was able to do the entire recap with one tip on one crap $15 soldering iron!
After I got everything back together, I fired it up.
Full sound, no Simasimac, no smoke, no burning smell. It booted right to the OS first try! Before, there was a 50/50 chance of Simasimac, so I power cycled it a few times, and no Simasimac! I also got some eject motors from CC, so the SE/30 is fully functional!