68kMLA

Doesn't look like it has started leaking yet - the solder is bright and shiny, is it a PPC?

Is that a 7100? I'm in the same boat and have been putting this one off for a while.. I used craft knife blades to redirect the heat away from the plastic components which worked well with my Macintosh Portable. This one might be a little more tricky though

@greystash I very very very very strongly suggest using twist, not heat for that cap, and others to be honest.

It is a 7100! And yes, I twisted all the caps off this board. They came off the easiest I’ve ever had them funny enough. Soldering in that one cap wasn’t actually that bad, just some careful poking.

And it works now! Would chime inconsistently and rarely before, now it runs great.

Thanks for the tip @Phipli, would you twist the caps while holding the base in place, and then de-solder? I hadn't thought about doing it this way but it seems a lot safer. Great to see you've got it working @3lectr1cPPC nice job!

@greystash - Use a pair of needle nose pliers so that they point towards the PCB and grip the metal can. Grip firmly and do not slip. Push down lightly (to apply a little pressure to the pads to help avoid pulling on them) and rotate the pliers/cap....

@greystash ...
It usually takes about one revolution and you feel the twist get easier and then you can lift the cap can free. This usually leaves the two legs and plastic base. Snip the legs shorter, and remove the plastic with your nails or sidecutters. Remove the last bit of the feet with a soldering iron, bit of flux and some fresh solder.

Thanks @Phipli that's really helpful, I'll give it a go!