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3D-Printed Objects

ArmorAlley and I have exchanged PMs, and I am thinking about doing a run of 20-30 pieces or so. If I can get someone else interested, then I think it will be worth my time to do so!

I am still refining my materials selection, so I don't have any final cost numbers yet, but I am hoping to make these very affordable.

 
Just a quick question, would people be more interested in something closer to white, or closer to grey?

 
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It is PLA though, I was hoping for ABS...

Why ABS? It is what the original parts were made out of, and the buttons will have to be pressed, ABS is a little bit more flexible.

 
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What would be nice is a simple "apple" drive mount adapter for their goofy 4-hole "small" pattern to the more industry standard on current 2.5" drives.

This way, a thinner/newer SSD (or mSATA <-> IDE) drive could be mounted into an older IDE powerbook. Would only need to be 3mm thick and have the hole pattern for modern drives be countersunk for a shallow screw.

 
What would be nice is a simple "apple" drive mount adapter for their goofy 4-hole "small" pattern to the more industry standard on current 2.5" drives.

This way, a thinner/newer SSD (or mSATA <-> IDE) drive could be mounted into an older IDE powerbook. Would only need to be 3mm thick and have the hole pattern for modern drives be countersunk for a shallow screw.
I like this idea, as I've been working with the innards of my Powerbook 190cs and the drive mounting (or lack thereof in this case) bothers me greatly.

A simple adapter plate might be enough. If I get some time soon I'll break out the calipers and get something modeled up.

 
So.. what are the thoughts on "print it yourself, and have it be streaky" vs. use a service like Shapeways for a more professional finish or even a nice polished look?

Cost is much higher with shape ways, but having seen a number of their parts in person, I wonder if it's not worth it for external case parts- bezels, etc.

Thoughts?

 
Because most parts printed off a desktop 3D printer are- it's not an issue- just how they look...

 
It's streaky because it's piece of plastic string melted, layer after layer.  It leaves layers and streaks.  You can smooth it out by putting the object in a hood and letting vapors from paint remover or whatever melt the outside a tiny bit.

The only desktop 3D printer that won't be streaky is the Formlabs SLA printer, but it also costs $3500 for just the printer (not including the $700 UV machine to cure the resin.)

Desktop SLS (powder + laser) printers are $10,000+, which is cheaper than their industrial cousins at $100,000+.

 
Alternatively, if you get a tumbler with plastic beads, that can also smooth out a 3D print.  Whenever you "smooth" a print, though, you lose detail.

 
The vapor smoothing is only really available for ABS prints, acetone vapor immersion will slightly melt the surface, smoothing it out.
I think PLA is more common now due to the printer cost (no need for heated bed or extra ventilation), and doesn't have an easy smoothing method like that.

 
It wasn't too bad.  Not as nice as the original one though.   Also made one with an indent, but couldn't get that one to print right since it had to print upside down to support the stick part

 
Alaska, just got my portable and I think it has one of your batteries installed! lol

Hey, still printing feet? My portable needs them... Can you print in white/grey?

 
Alaska, just got my portable and I think it has one of your batteries installed! lol

Hey, still printing feet? My portable needs them... Can you print in white/grey?
Really? Who did you get it from? I can probably make some feet if needed.

 
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I bought it from a guy on eBay who sold me my portable. It's a black enclosed 3d printed battery case.

If you've got the white or grey filament, maybe black, let me know, I need feet!

 
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