I’ve had alkaline AAs and the sort go bad in weeks even, agree. Never seen these do that. Everyone’s experience may vary.
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Picked up a few macs, don't know where to start
- Thread starter kurb69
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Nice. Too bad the screen is black on it, going to have to get it going. Could parts from an SE monitor be backwards compatible?
Most likely just cracked solder joints
I checked the back of the logic board and the power supply board with a bright light last night when i had it open they looked perfect i must have looked for 20 minutes thinking there was one but i couldnt find it. I took the white paper off the back of the analog board and everything, maybe its something else? Idk normally in the past ive found some dry sockets and fixed them on other things nothing looked even remotely bad on it
The cracks are usually very hard to see
The cracks are often extremely hard to see. Reflow them as a matter of routine.
As a general social note, if you ask for people's advice, a lot of people suggest doing X and then you just discount it on the grounds of 'doesn't look like that to me' without any further reason, people are going to check out of trying to help you.
As a general social note, if you ask for people's advice, a lot of people suggest doing X and then you just discount it on the grounds of 'doesn't look like that to me' without any further reason, people are going to check out of trying to help you.
As I said before... reflow the solder joints, doesn't matter what they look like. A dry joint or cracked joint is often hard to spot by eye alone.
SE analog board is different to 128k analog board. The tube is compatible.
Yeah thats why I would never do that
Its difficult for someone who hasnt done alot of solder work to just "reflow the board". I am just trying to troubleshoot the easiest things first before I get to the more difficult things, which I am prepared to attempt. Being a contractor I deal with alot of people when I work on their houses or build their houses etc and they have questions and i explain but they dont understand, thats the best comparison i can make to me right now. I understand to reflow the board. I was just thinking maybe perhaps there might be something simple (for me) i could try before something thats more difficult like reflowing the whole board (for me).
Understandable...and when you do get around to it, don't "reflow the whole board" right of the bat. Try just reflowing the socket for the cable from the logic board first. That's a common spot for cracked solder joints.
reflow these pins first before anything else: power connector between the LB and AB, and the 4 pins for the yoke board (on the AB side).
Thanks guys do you have a recommendation for a soldering kit I could buy for working on electronics? I don't want the cheapest junk there is but i don't need the most professional setup either lol. I am ignorant to the prices on something like that ive checked ebay before and i find a bunch of china made stuff which might be good enough idk thats why im asking. I'd be willing to go a couple hundred, or more if that wont get what you think i need.
Edit: I mean id prefer to keep it under a couple hundred if thats possible. I hope it is
Double edit: Bunch of china ones like 20 dollars on ebay lol is that good enough? I hate when stuff is so cheap I just know its going to break right away
Edit: I mean id prefer to keep it under a couple hundred if thats possible. I hope it is
Double edit: Bunch of china ones like 20 dollars on ebay lol is that good enough? I hate when stuff is so cheap I just know its going to break right away
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So for five years or so, I used a cheap Yihua rework station (soldering iron and hot air gun in one unit) and it was fine, able to do a wide variety of soldering jobs including SMD rework and heating up joints attached to big ground planes. The cost if I remember correctly was something like
£70 from Amazon UK, they have risen in price since I think.
Chinese stuff is often OK, but I wouldn't buy from eBay, buy from a seller that specialises in this sort of equipment instead.
$20 is not going to get you anything decent, IMO.
£70 from Amazon UK, they have risen in price since I think.
Chinese stuff is often OK, but I wouldn't buy from eBay, buy from a seller that specialises in this sort of equipment instead.
$20 is not going to get you anything decent, IMO.
Yeah thats what I mean, id rather just spend the money now and get a forever one. I just dont want to spend over 200 USD. I will look on amazon and see what I can find in the range of 50-150 dollars, whats selling fast with good ratings. I just don't trust ratings all the time as they can just pay people to give good reviews... Thats why I like to ask people like you guys here for advice.
I found another Quadra 610 in the mix bringing the number of good (non battery bombed) ones up to 4. What is the difference between the Quadra 605 and 610?
I also opened up the other IIfx again and I think I was wrong about the board being bad. It looks like something on top of it leaked into it and on top of the power supply ill take a pic in a bit. The maxell bomb was in it and it did burst but it only trickled out, the holder pulled right off but it didnt look like it went anywhere else. So that board might be good. The case is nice and non yellowed as well...
I also opened up the other IIfx again and I think I was wrong about the board being bad. It looks like something on top of it leaked into it and on top of the power supply ill take a pic in a bit. The maxell bomb was in it and it did burst but it only trickled out, the holder pulled right off but it didnt look like it went anywhere else. So that board might be good. The case is nice and non yellowed as well...
Used Metcal MX-500. This type of iron is head and shoulders above everything else. Example: https://ebay.us/m/jZQhqG
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