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  1. The cables aren't binding. I've checked with the hinge covers off and they still have slack at the point where it won't close further.
  2. What kind of lubricant would I use? I don't really think that's it though. It's smooth and easy to move the rest of the way. I took another close look at the hinges and it looks like they're hitting the stops. They look the same as the original though so I don't understand why it doesn't close. The lid closed fine on the donor laptop.
  3. Thanks for the info unity. Unfortunately that didn't work. For now, I've loosened the screws enough that I can close it. The screen's a bit wobbly now though.
  4. No, the hinges are part of the lid assembly and I definitely got the screen the right way around.
  5. They're identical best I can tell unless there's some sub-millimeter difference somewhere.
  6. I just got two Titanium PowerBook G4 laptops on Craigslist for $30. One is a 400MHz (Mercury) model with extensive water damage. The other is a 550MHz (Onyx) model with broken hinges but working otherwise. I moved the entire lid/display assembly from the 400MHz to the 550MHz. Everything works, except the lid won't close all the way. It starts to resist strongly at around 5 degrees from completely closed. This leaves about an inch of space between the latch and the screen. I'm afraid to put any more pressure on it for fear of breaking the hinges again. Opening it more than 5 degrees feels n
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