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  1. My first thought is to check the LCD cable, especially the connector. When the machine is on, try and put some pressure in different positions on the Flat-Flex connector on the Motherboard. My reasoning for it being the cable is it's the easiest thing that can go bad unless the display itself got damaged. Does the machine display output work fine if you connect it to an external monitor via DVI? That should tell you exactly where to start looking.
  2. In addition to what was mentioned here, just about any of the cards mentioned here will all be overclockable quite significantly especially the ATI ones. So if the price difference is quite substantial from one card to the next, you can always find a solid guide on volt modding (which is unbelievably easy on these old cards). Then go ahead and use something like ATIccellerator and max out the clock on it. I mean realistically if you can get an extra ~30-40% for simply putting some pencil lead over a resistor on the Voltage Controller and dragging a slider, it might be a good try instead of spe
  3. You're completely right.. Most of the modern (Atleast LiPo) cells I've seen have built in over/under charge circuitry. So at least the Battery itself would be fine, but I'm not at all sure how a lead acid charging circuit differs from any other like with a NiMH etc. Recharging could be handled in a number of ways, if the laptop itself couldn't do it, you could add a super simple 19.5v Step down charging circuit to use with a normal laptop charger. Or even have some AA rechargeable Sanyo Eneloops in a 3D printed tray, and just pop them out to charge. But that would be very manual and tedious.
  4. Should be doable. At that time, there wasn't any kind of power controller for the battery cells itself. So, you can just replace the cells as long as it's the same voltage and be good to go. I'm sure you can hack mostly anything you want in there.
  5. The thing literally had everything perfectly sealed and unused when I bought it, The sleeve had never even been opened for those covers. I'll take a look and see which card it is and report back for you. IF you have any pictures of what I'm looking for I'd appreciate it. Is it located right next to the CPU? Mine has all kinds of cards and things inside.
  6. Looks like I do have that video card in mine then, I wondered what in the heck that was... (Pardon the pictures, they were the best ones I have).
  7. Wait a minute... What does this video card or port look like? I have a weird video card port in the one I've got, but never knew what it was for...
  8. So I'm curious as to what kind of Time Table we're talking about here for a first revision physical prototype? Also, are you planning for the board house to do all/some (QFP/BGA's) of the component level work, or are you planning on doing that yourself/selling as a kit?
  9. I'd stick with the Wallstreet, as it's the most modern of your options. Plus you're going to pay a collectors premium on anything older than the Wallstreet, as it's probably the most economically feasible option. There are a few FDD expansion modules on eBay for it too: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xpowerbook+floppy+module.TRS2&_nkw=powerbook+floppy+module&_sacat=0 Be warned, of all the PB's i've had (a ton), a VAST substantial majority of them have unreliable Floppy Disk Drives.
  10. Unless the software you're running actually uses the FPU, you probably wont see any difference. You'd be best comparing a 68040 vs a 68LC040, that would pretty much give you an idea as the only difference between he two is the FPU. I just look at the price, I was genuinely surprised at how much those cost.. If you want a fully maxed machine and to say it has an FPU go for it.
  11. Very interesting, thank you for posting that. Suppose you're right, out of the mountains of hard disks I've got, all of them from ~1998 (Earliest one's that work still) are much smaller than I remember. I guess I've forgotten the fine details over the while as my Western Digital Caviar 34000 is labeled in 4000.7MB, not 4GB. My goodness how time fly's.
  12. Is that a physical limitation? Or could that be gotten around by just partitioning a larger drive into 127GB Slices?
  13. Everyone in here has pretty much given you the whole spiel. But, the primary reason the SD adapters are slow dang slow is because of the Bus Controllers used in the adapters are almost always capped at ~20MB/s bandwidth (Not sure if it's a Firmware issue, or the Chip/implementation itself is so slow). Seeing as how the higher end "Pro" SD cards can reach ~100MB/s, they should not be the limiting factor. My opinion is going to be shifted towards the mSATA adapter as SSD prices have basically fallen out of the sky over the last year (128GB for around ~$35). Whichever is a better Price/Perf
  14. Mine here doesn't have any computers either. Not sure what the policy is, but after months of no success I've given up. Now, when it comes to peripherals and other cables etc, that might find itself more evident. There always seems to be dozens of keyboards and other odd-ends.
  15. Don't care what anyone says, that G5 is going to be a much more enjoyable experience as far as performance is concerned. Especially with web browsing, you will see a stark difference. The only time you're going to really get ahead of a Single G5 system, with a Single G4 (Even the latest), is if you're pushing atleast a 1:1 or higher clock speed. My 2Ghz PowerBook G4 was still only about ~20-30% faster overall than that 1.8Ghz G5. That thing was what I would consider just tolerable for a modern browser experience.
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