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aplmak

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About aplmak

  • Birthday 03/11/1975

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    Male
  • Location
    North Providence, RI
  • Interests
    Computers

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  1. I haven’t messed with the platters really.. a few times I used denatured alcohol or 90% rubbing alcohol to clean some stuff on the top plate and it didn’t affect anything. But taking them apart will be tricky. You have to make sure the heads do not touch each other. It’s a big risk but you have nothing to loose if it’s not working I guess. As I’ve said I’ve removed goo and the gooed filter successfully.. and silicone sealed top and bottom. I have a few working drives but bad boards on them.
  2. You mean open up the actual drive? I'd check for signs of goo around the top and bottom cover... If there is a good gasket inbetween you should see a black rubber gasket by pressing your fingernail. If not it's probably turned to goo. I carefully replace top and bottom (don't forget to remove round warranty stickers first). then separate the drives. Take a peek inside. If the head assembly has rubber bumpers on it just forget it.. or if you can get a replacement with clear bumpers you should be ok. Next is to clean all around the edges with a q-tip careful not to get any goo on the platters. I
  3. Anyone familiar on where to purchase the "gooed" rubber bumpers or feet for the duo series? I did find some a while back that pretty much worked but they were black in color. Would be nice to get grey similar replacements... Any assistance greatly appreciated... Have a great weekend! Matt
  4. The boards do different things.. sometimes you can hear the heads scan initially then no boot. No smoke, no fire, no burnt parts on the boards at all. They appear to be in good shape on the outside.
  5. Techknight it’s the boards that aren’t working.. if I take a board from a working drive they are fine. I have no idea what’s gone on all these boards.. I’ve stuck a regular envelope between the boards and the drive each one.. each do strange things.. but don’t boot. Again a board from a working drive just fine...
  6. This is how I do it.. I crack the two sides by pressing in hard.. if it’s a real old dried one it will crack and break.. but this one in the pic no. I pry from the bottom with small screwdriver.. most of the time I do it so you can’t see any marks but you can here.. but they are on the bottom which is not usually in view.. this one is done and re super glued all around. It takes patience and a knack.. but can be done!
  7. As techknight said YOU MUST recap! Even keeping the old ones on perhaps still ooozing electrolytic fluid is bad!! I feel like here on 68k we get the same questions on Mac Portables about recapping.. Techknight is the portable EXPERT! He knows every chip, every trace!! He’s worked on enough of my damaged boards over the years!! As well as countless others. Your museum quality machine will have eroded and destroyed areas on it. Best first if you can’t find someone to recap is place it in the bathtub (the logic board) and with a toothbrush scrub it lightly down with denat
  8. It was the stupid Master/Slave jumper! So I put the jumper on Master and bent it all the way down. Had to squeeze it in the hdd caddy but it’s screwed in and WORKS!!!!
  9. Ok here’s one for ya’ll. Wallstreet 333 MHz I replaced with a Trancend 32gb IDE ssd. Formatted fine with Apple HD drive setup. Installed OS 9.2.2 perfectly. Drive appears on desktop with all files. Mind you I did this via a bootable PCMCIA 32gb card. Now will not boot PCMCIA card out of course.. CD ROM unresponsive to eject. So fine I throw a 4gb ide back in it! Booted fine! CD operates fine.. I mean what the heck?????? Any Ideas???
  10. I’m just surprised.. because even when that foam was new I can’t see a solder lead not piercing through it.. now if it was plastic that would make sense.
  11. Ok so here’s some photos.. the three drives work I just need working boards.. And also the silicone seal I use when they are all cleaned.. also is a picture of a bad head magnet! The black bumpers always turn gooey and sticky.. you can also see the magnets flaking..
  12. I’ve used a paint brush and the foam just comes right off easily..
  13. Hmmmm I have several drives with absolutely no foam. And are working normal. Aren’t the metal standoff’s long enough to clear the bottom of the drive?? I’ll have to check that out.. The other question about fixing the goo is a lot of patience and to be very careful. As long as the goo hasn’t hit the heads or the platters yet. I use a qtip and go around and around the edging.. and then use qtips with 90% alcohol to thoroughly clean. There are two tricky spots where you get close to the platter. Also if you have a drive with black head bumpers that has to be removed and thrown out.
  14. It seems to be mostly revision "E's" in this stack.. maybe a D and an F but all E's
  15. Ok so I have 3 working drives.. I de-gooed them and sealed them with some good silicone adhesive. They are in perfect shape. The problem is the boards... I've got a pile of connor hdd boards that are bad... I assume it was during when people tried to fire them up while capacitors were leaking everywhere and it did something to a chip on the hdd boards. If I swap boards from a good unit it they power up and run just perfectly fine. If I only knew what to fix on this pile of bad connor CP-3045 hard drive controller boards........
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